Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

purchased a 6mt 2004 v35 coupe, the previous owner advised that the battery in the key needed replacing, however when i purchased the car and changed the batteries on both keys the doors do not lock/unlock via the keys remote so atm i am locking/unlocking the doors manually with the key which is a pain in the ass at times...

would you guys know what the problem is? please help

also the door lock switch on the drivers side works however when locking the doors the passanger side does not lock also

look forward to your help so i can get this issue fixed!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397857-centrol-locking-remote-doesnt-work/
Share on other sites

drivers door is not meant to lock via the lock button UNLESS I have touched the car then it will. the remote entry is tied to the drivers door only when that works it locks the other side by default.

new remote time btw. make sure you have the immobiliser codes or make a trip to nissan

sorry but im confused arent they meant to lock and unlock both sides cause thats the case in other cars that have that unlock button?

also is it a regular thing for oem v35 central locking remotes to cark it and not work anymore? because i have 2 of them surely they both cant be stuffed? could it be something else?

and if so how much am i looking at for a new remote?

thank you

ka86 so what is the door actuator problem for my drivers side to no lock when pressing the door lock button or for my central locking to not work on the remote?

how much would that be to buy and replace? i really want to get these problems fixed, also need to change my brakes and machine them (brembos) :S

thanks for the help.....( im really a car noob) lol

ka86 so what is the door actuator problem for my drivers side to no lock when pressing the door lock button or for my central locking to not work on the remote?

how much would that be to buy and replace? i really want to get these problems fixed, also need to change my brakes and machine them (brembos) :S

thanks for the help.....( im really a car noob) lol

It is a common problem. The actuator itself is not locking when using the remote. The bushes and rods wear out. That's why you can hear the small click of it triggering but not actually locking. Common problem and a newer OEM version was released. Not saying it is not your remote but it sounds alot like a faulty actuator. It will lock manually right?

Price wise roughly:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-OEM-INFINITI-2003-2004-G35-COUPE-RIGHT-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-BRAND-NEW-V35-/150724584284?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2317e2a35c

There is a DIY fix to mock up new rods but if your not confident than don't try.

http://g35driver.com/forums/interior-exterior/347409-5-door-lock-actuator-fix-updated-thread.html

And if you search google along the lines of 'G35 Door Actuator problem' or something like that, you will see it's a known problem.

eg;

http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/375728-problem-driver-side-door-locking-unlocking.html

This is the guide:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/315036-diy-v35-door-lock-actuator-power-window-removal/

As for insatllation wise, can't say. Depends on where you take it to. Seems to take anywhere between 2-4 hours depending on the person. Different places charge their own hourly rate. Where are you based anyways? You would have to ring around.

I also am having the same issue. It wasn't responding for awhile.. now it is working fine. However I will have to replace the actuator eventually.

My issue was that it didn't work on 2 x OEM remotes and 2x After Market Alarm FOBs. Can't really think of any other reason it is not working. :cool:

hi ka86,

thanks heaps for the useful tips, ive yet to really research door actuator problems but it seems it might be the case however just letting you know that when i press any button on the key fob that i am not hearing any clicking whatsoever so im not too sure if it is an actuator problem altogether.....very frustrating this!

oh and i am based in sydney ay, anyone know if there are any v35 meets held in sydney??? it would be good as i would gain some further knowledge on these awesome cars and check out what other people have

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...