Jump to content
SAU Community

Centrol Locking Remote Doesnt Work


Recommended Posts

hi guys,

purchased a 6mt 2004 v35 coupe, the previous owner advised that the battery in the key needed replacing, however when i purchased the car and changed the batteries on both keys the doors do not lock/unlock via the keys remote so atm i am locking/unlocking the doors manually with the key which is a pain in the ass at times...

would you guys know what the problem is? please help

also the door lock switch on the drivers side works however when locking the doors the passanger side does not lock also

look forward to your help so i can get this issue fixed!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

drivers door is not meant to lock via the lock button UNLESS I have touched the car then it will. the remote entry is tied to the drivers door only when that works it locks the other side by default.

new remote time btw. make sure you have the immobiliser codes or make a trip to nissan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry but im confused arent they meant to lock and unlock both sides cause thats the case in other cars that have that unlock button?

also is it a regular thing for oem v35 central locking remotes to cark it and not work anymore? because i have 2 of them surely they both cant be stuffed? could it be something else?

and if so how much am i looking at for a new remote?

thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ka86 so what is the door actuator problem for my drivers side to no lock when pressing the door lock button or for my central locking to not work on the remote?

how much would that be to buy and replace? i really want to get these problems fixed, also need to change my brakes and machine them (brembos) :S

thanks for the help.....( im really a car noob) lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ka86 so what is the door actuator problem for my drivers side to no lock when pressing the door lock button or for my central locking to not work on the remote?

how much would that be to buy and replace? i really want to get these problems fixed, also need to change my brakes and machine them (brembos) :S

thanks for the help.....( im really a car noob) lol

It is a common problem. The actuator itself is not locking when using the remote. The bushes and rods wear out. That's why you can hear the small click of it triggering but not actually locking. Common problem and a newer OEM version was released. Not saying it is not your remote but it sounds alot like a faulty actuator. It will lock manually right?

Price wise roughly:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-OEM-INFINITI-2003-2004-G35-COUPE-RIGHT-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-BRAND-NEW-V35-/150724584284?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2317e2a35c

There is a DIY fix to mock up new rods but if your not confident than don't try.

http://g35driver.com/forums/interior-exterior/347409-5-door-lock-actuator-fix-updated-thread.html

And if you search google along the lines of 'G35 Door Actuator problem' or something like that, you will see it's a known problem.

eg;

http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/375728-problem-driver-side-door-locking-unlocking.html

This is the guide:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/315036-diy-v35-door-lock-actuator-power-window-removal/

As for insatllation wise, can't say. Depends on where you take it to. Seems to take anywhere between 2-4 hours depending on the person. Different places charge their own hourly rate. Where are you based anyways? You would have to ring around.

I also am having the same issue. It wasn't responding for awhile.. now it is working fine. However I will have to replace the actuator eventually.

My issue was that it didn't work on 2 x OEM remotes and 2x After Market Alarm FOBs. Can't really think of any other reason it is not working. :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi ka86,

thanks heaps for the useful tips, ive yet to really research door actuator problems but it seems it might be the case however just letting you know that when i press any button on the key fob that i am not hearing any clicking whatsoever so im not too sure if it is an actuator problem altogether.....very frustrating this!

oh and i am based in sydney ay, anyone know if there are any v35 meets held in sydney??? it would be good as i would gain some further knowledge on these awesome cars and check out what other people have

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have exactly the same problem, the driver door dosent lock with the windows lock button, only unlock, However, here is the tricky thing, with the remote key its unlock and lock perfectly. any idea?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you live in Sydney i can recommend you to a guy who fixed the same problem on my car. Located in Parramatta. Just PM me.

I live in Melbourne, Do you know what was the problem? May you ask him what he did? Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
×
×
  • Create New...