Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, im looking to sell my R34 GTT.

Pictures will be up in the next few days.

1998 r34 GTT 2door

Nismo cluster.

Nismo triple guages.

Nismo gear knob.

Nismo front and side clear indicators.

Drift blade drivers seat on adjustable r34 rail, both ADR approved. not a cut and shut rail.

work xt7 wheels bronze, 18 x 9.5 +20 all round.

235 tires all round.

blue work wheel nuts.

heavy duty button clutch (not sure of brand, was in car when i bought it)

New Blitz coilovers.

Adjustable front camber arms.

HICAS lock bar.

Adjustable heavy duty whiteline sway bar front and rear.

Blitz return flow fmic

Apexi highflow panel filter

GCG high flow turbo

hks 15psi actuator

hks cam gears

splitfire coilpacks

highflowed injectors

bosch 040 fuel pump

3" turbo back exhaust

catco 3" high flow cat converter

reinhard 3" catback with 3.5" twin tips.

Power FC ecu with hand controller (power fc is currently housed in a standard ecu case, i have the standard power fc ecu case as well)

tuned by status tuning.

Mongoose alarm, immobilizer, keyless central locking, vibration sensor when armed.

Alpine CDA-9887 headunit

hertz 6.5" front splits

hertz 6.5" rears

6 channel audison amplifier

12" P.audio subwoofer.

12month rego, and RWC.

I've owned the car for a little over 2 years. i've used the car as a daily driver everyday for those 2 years, it has not once had an issue.

Always garaged at my house when home.

$24,500 ONO

SE Melb suburbs.

I think that is all, any questions dont hesitate to ask, PM me if you want to come and see it and ill send you my mobile number.

Edited by lach88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397911-1998-r34-gtt-2-door/
Share on other sites

Sorry, been stupid busy.

KM's: 60,000 KM (I'm not sure on the exact KM's of the car, as it has a Nismo dash in it. The dash was in it when i bought the car, and was in it when the previous owner bought the car.)

Colour: White

Also forgot to mention it also has, Z32 AFM.

post-69357-0-19721600-1335696155_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-38748200-1335696160_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-73802900-1335696164_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-79787100-1335696167_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-10681900-1335696171_thumb.jpg

post-69357-0-52697800-1335696173_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-32063300-1335696176_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-69579700-1335696178_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-74866100-1335696180_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-99826000-1335696222_thumb.jpg

post-69357-0-04740800-1335696227_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-88400600-1335696229_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-46968800-1335696234_thumb.jpg post-69357-0-68365300-1335696236_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...