Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found this. Looks like that signal is the opposite of what we want. Bummer 'cause that would have made it pretty easy.

post-76144-0-04244800-1367829961_thumb.jpg

Edited by Commsman

How old was that post Craig? You gotta get out more...

I gave up on the anti lag, it didn't help much as the stally has been returned to a stock stator, and there is no possibility of it ever making boost. Yours would be a different story. I had plans to test another method to pre spool the turbo, compressed air, but this isn't the car to test that theory on. lol.

I can see mine going rwd manual very soon anyway which gets right around the launch issue. Or perhaps I will drop back to a highflow again for launch boosts, and so the gearbox isn't having quite so hard a time.

Anyway, back on topic, the neutral signal will work one way or another, but if it's 12v then it will be a simple strip and twist, nice and easy for a DIY with pics. I will take some shots when I test this out on the next car. (Damn Leon, you beat me to it. Looks like we will need a relay.)

Anyway, back on topic, the neutral signal will work one way or another, but if it's 12v then it will be a simple strip and twist, nice and easy for a DIY with pics. I will take some shots when I test this out on the next car. (Damn Leon, you beat me to it. Looks like we will need a relay.)

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V.

But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes?

post-76144-0-01263000-1367841813_thumb.jpg

DIY instructions:

1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end.

2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact).

3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up.

Job done :thumbsup:

post-76144-0-87883200-1367842764_thumb.jpg

Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

  • 3 weeks later...

so has this been tried and tested yet??

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V.

But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes?

attachicon.gifStart sig on Pin42.JPG

DIY instructions:

1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end.

2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact).

3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up.

Job done :thumbsup:

attachicon.gifSimple brake wire mod.JPG

Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

  • Like 1

would i need to install a diod if i went this option

If you don't want to install a 'valet' switch then you don't need a diode when you connect any 12V source, be it from reverse lights, another pin on the ECU or anywhere else.

Ideally a 12V source close to ECU is best. Just need one that is 12V only at times when you don't need full throttle; eg reversing or starting the car.

The only location for reverse lights that I have found is at the rear, so not very convenient (although I already had a spare wire left over from TV install) & the start signal on the ECU is certainly convenient, but Scotty thinks it may not be active long enough to keep the code clear (although I think it should be OK 'cause when mine put out a CEL it would only take a few seconds with the switch thrown & pedal pushed to clear it).

Why don't you give it a go & let us know? If you do the mod you should know in 500km or so. Cutting one wire & joining it to another seems to be the simplest idea we've come up with so far.

Because it will have looked for the brake wire signal & generally spotted a fault in that time.

Mine sometimes goes weeks without throwing the fault; so it can be a bit hit & miss.

Mine takes about 5 seconds to reset. Still worth trying it, as a quick supply of power might be enough to stop the light from coming on, instead of the few seconds to override the light.

One thing I have noticed is I get better fuel consumption with the light on.

Mine takes about 5 seconds to reset. Still worth trying it, as a quick supply of power might be enough to stop the light from coming on, instead of the few seconds to override the light.

One thing I have noticed is I get better fuel consumption with the light on.

You will.....it will go lean.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drive beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...