Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After checking my friends R32 GTST, it seems that the R32's are afflicted with sagging doors. Is there any way to remedy this? Is it just a case of realligning the bolts on the hinges or do you need to buy new hinges?

I'm getting annoyed at having to either slam my door for them to close or else lift the door as I close it. Anyone notice this and have a fix?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39846-door-sag/
Share on other sites

Open the doors, grab one by the end and move up and down. If there is a lot of play then you will have to either realign the bolts or take of the hinges and sit them down verticaly put a nice flat piece of wood on top and give it a bit of a whack with a hammer.

i have fixed few doors like this on other cars and its worked ok.

My 32's doors are on fine (the post made me go out and check) although ill have a closer look after just to see if any excesive wear n tear.

If in the end you gotta buy hinges go see Wally at Zimports hes got everything for R32s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39846-door-sag/#findComment-815245
Share on other sites

Yeah, my latches are pretty worn, well the rubber is anyway. My mates car sags even more than mine but I guess I'm just picky with mine :)

Do you need to remove the front quarter panels to get to the bolts? I can't see any other way to do it.

yep sorry chief bit of a bitch even more if you got sideskirts :bs!:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39846-door-sag/#findComment-815653
Share on other sites

Both my doors still close rather solidly, just needs extra force coz they don't line up with the latches properly. The clang maybe a loose window rail inside the door, my previous car had a clanging sound when closing and it turned out that one of the rubber dameners on the glass was brittle. Hope that helps!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39846-door-sag/#findComment-816128
Share on other sites

After checking my friends R32 GTST, it seems that the R32's are afflicted with sagging doors. Is there any way to remedy this? Is it just a case of realligning the bolts on the hinges or do you need to buy new hinges?

I'm getting annoyed at having to either slam my door for them to close or else lift the door as I close it. Anyone notice this and have a fix?

MY R 32 USE TO DO IT I CHANGED MY HINGES AND IT HAS NEVER BEEN BETTER

AND YES YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE FRONT GUARDS OFF

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39846-door-sag/#findComment-817450
Share on other sites

probably a sign its been in accident.. but anywayz..

You can either adjust the stopper where it closes to adjust the "closed" position. This can sometimes fix things. Otherwise you will have to adjust the hinges. This involves removing the front guard first, and then either careful supporting the door at the end, or getting a mate to hold it, while you undo the bolts and try and position it up better.

If it has been involved in an accident then maybe no amount of playing will fix it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39846-door-sag/#findComment-818531
Share on other sites

  • 12 years later...

I had some sag on both sides on my 34, probably 10mm on drivers side and 5mm on passenger

After messing around for half a day without any decent results and realising the hinges were fine i fixed the problem and got both doors to line up perfectly

First, loosen the bottom hinge bolts on the body (not the door itself) - I had the guards off so its pretty easy to reach all bolts

Then, open the door slightly and get the trolley jack under the edge of the door, with something to protect the edge (rubber or cloth, whatever works)

Jack the door up very carefully and line up the plastic trims on the door and the rear window

Then, tighten the bottom hinge (it may have moved very slightly), close the door and loosen and tighten the bolts on the top hinge to relieve any strain/tension caused by moving the door up

Test, and repeat if needed - mine are now perfect

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39846-door-sag/#findComment-7823423
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...