Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Does anyone have any experience with the N16 Pulsar Q 1.8L hatchback?

I am considering one as a daily driver and wondering if they have any problematic areas, how they drive, their fuel consumption, comfort etc.

In this class other viable options are the 01+ Corolla and 01+ Civic, both 5 door hatchbacks. I would likely prefer these 2, however the Nissan seems to be the cheapest as a second hand buy.

Help is appreciated

For reference:

53681_00mg.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398485-n16-pulsar-q-as-a-daily/
Share on other sites

hadouken is spot on!!

ive had pulsars for years! honestly, you cant ask for a better little car!

i currently have a n15sedan, i get 500odd k's to a $50 tank of fuel, $220 per year to insure, nice inside blah blah blah!!

i would choose a pulsar over the civic and corolla EVERY TIME

I prefer the hatch as I think it looks better plus it offers more versatility as it could take more of a load in the rear if the seats were folded down.

Are there any Pulsar forums which are not for the GTi-R?

there are. just google them.

one of the best pulsar forums, which i was a member of, is the uk forum www.almeraownersclub.com. much better than the australian forums.

Edited by adamskill

I prefer the hatch as I think it looks better plus it offers more versatility as it could take more of a load in the rear if the seats were folded down.

Are there any Pulsar forums which are not for the GTi-R?

http://forum.pulsar.org.au

i'm a member on there (but don't go on there much).

as for the n16 pulsar, they are just as reliable as the corollas, etc you are looking at. my mother has a 2000 model corolla and i don't like it. it drives ok (lots of body roll compared to the missus SSS though), runs fine, hasn't had any issues (she's had it since new and it now has about 170,000kms on it), but it's just not my cup of tea. the n16 won't be much different to the others you are looking at. will feel like a small car, decent amount of go, even the autos. my sister has an auto 2006 corolla and it goes pretty well. the auto in the n14 pulsar i had was crap, but it was only the 1.6L (gear ratios were too far apart for a gutless engine).

the nissan is the cheapest to buy out of your list because they are the least popular. the corollas are the best selling small car, so they are somewhat sought after in the second hand market as well. usually a car that sells in big numbers means lower resale (such as commodore/falcon), but with the reliability/reputation of them, they hold their value pretty well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...