Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've searched the forums and saw many varying views on the different oils for the manual gearbox from a fair while ago. Just wondering what you guys think after a few km's on the gearbox oil you selected and why you think it's good or bad.

These are the 3 oils i'm looking at using:

Castrol Syntrax - 75w90

Castrol VMX80 - 75w80

Redline Lightweight - 75W140

I currently have Redline Lightweight in my gearbox. I don't think i've done enough km's for it to "wear in" as i've read in other threads that it does. I had the gearbox out and spilled some of the oil out so am not sure whether to get more redline and top it up or change it out for one of the castrol oils.

Post up your experiences!

And if anyone knows where i can get some Redline Lightweight Shockproof in Melbourne today (pref over the eastern side) that would be sweet as Oil World has sold out :)

Andrew

About 12 months ago I drained the oil (looked like the factory stuff !!) and put in VMX80.

After about a month of driving the 1-2 crunch I got when cold almost disappeared.... But now it's back again, but not as bad.

Give it another few months and I plan on draining it and replacing it with Redline Lightweight shockproof, cause by then the weather would have gotten colder and the 1-2 crunch would have got worse... :)

J

Yeah i think i'm just going to top up my Redline. The engine had to come out and they spilled some oil from the gearbox. I've hardly done any km's on that gearbox oil. Only problem is Oil World have sold out here in Melbourne so i can't get any till Tuesday!

I'm going to put Motul 4100 Turbolight in the engine too... see how that goes.

How much is redline lightweight shockproof? Is it much more expensive than the other two?

I think its almost time for me to do my gearbox and diff oil, as i dont know if they were done for compliance or not.

Cheers,

Rhett

I put the Redline in my gearbox a while back and it made a massive difference after about 750km of driving. I'm not sure how long ago that was but i'm getting crunching again so it might be due for another change.

Yeah i have a short shifter kit, but i haven't driven the car for 6 months so can't really tell you anything about it!!! Once it's back on the road i'm gonna try and clock up 1000km's in the first week. Then i'll be able to tell you about it.

Is anyone using these oils with a short-shifter kit?

LW.

Lucien;

I've got a short shifter in a 32 GTR and 1-2 shifts can be notchy sometimes, usually when shifting quickly and accelerating hard. Low speed or pausing slightly between shifts smooths it out but the latter defeats the purpose of a short shifter. Pushing the shifter firmly to the left when changing sometimes helps also. It's very smooth everywhere else which makes the 1-2 shift really annoying. Does yours do the same?

I was thinking about using some friction modifier - used to good effect in an RS Liberty for about 20k km now.

Mark

Lucien;

I've got a short shifter in a 32 GTR and 1-2 shifts can be notchy sometimes, usually when shifting quickly and accelerating hard.  Low speed or pausing slightly between shifts smooths it out but the latter defeats the purpose of a short shifter. Pushing the shifter firmly to the left when changing sometimes helps also. It's very smooth everywhere else which makes the 1-2 shift really annoying. Does yours do the same?  

I was thinking about using some friction modifier - used to good effect in an RS Liberty for about 20k km now.  

Mark

What g/box oil are you using?

LW.

Valvoline 75-85

Interesting. Reason I ask is that I was considering installing a short shifter for me R32 GT-R -- don't have one ATM -- but I want to know that using a better oil will compensate for any additional strain. With that in mind, you mentioning crunchy gears don't exactly convince me that a better g/box oil will be enough.... :(

LW.

Thanks for the link Jimbo2000... if only i'd checked the forums earlier today!!! Oh well I'll go to box hill first thing in the morning. Hopefully i'll get the car tuned tomorrow or wednesday

lwells... i had a little crunch from 1st to 2nd as well before i put in the short shifter. I then had redline installed and the crunch went away. I then put in the C's short shifter kit and there is still no crunch. I think it's just a slightly warn gearbox that will give some crunchies when cold.

when i first got my car...after i changed all fluids it started crunching REALLY bad 1st-2nd...i used the valvoline dura gear 75w85....

after a few thousand k's i changed to vmx80 and the difference was great....i still use vmx80 now and change every 10,000k's or so and its very smooth no crunching at all...esp with my C's :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...