Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FOR SALE "my dream car"

R34 GTR M-SPEC (rare only 228 built)

only 56,000kms

Motor only done 6,000kms since build

All work carried out by Croydon Racing Developments

Motor is the full JUN 2.7 race catalog (same set up as the JUN R32 and RH9 R34 claimed their fame with 1000+awhp)

JUN Plenum

CRD JUN race head

CRD 9litre baffled sump

Run in on HKS TO4Z

GReddy alloy radiator

GReddy drag intercooler 160 wide

Tein coin overs

OS Giken quad plate clutch

genuine Titanium exhaust

Volk Gram Light 57F Pro 19x10.5 Pro GOLD

motor is ready for big turbo set up and to go over the 1000hp I was going to 1300hp. That is if the new buyer wants more power

currently 430awkw on Shell 98oct

Motor has never had any higher boost or race fuels.

Any doubts about the car feel free to speak to the guys at Croydon to confirm genuine kms and build was no expense spared.

accident free history

Rego NSW Jan2013

Regretful sale but both toys are going, my R33 GTR V spec 'WAR33R' will be up here next when I get some pics

NO LOW BALLERS or TYRE KICKING TEST PILOTS

$98,000

Justin 0414894884

post-18902-0-97531300-1335528782_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-46056700-1335528836_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-23790900-1335528887_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-29237100-1335528945_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-71150100-1335528993_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-98956900-1335529354_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-92148100-1335529471_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-88532400-1335529529_thumb.jpg

post-18902-0-24625200-1335529586_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398787-r34-gtr-m-spec-complete-jun-set-up/
Share on other sites

Yes the 33 is still available. Although It might sell before it gets on here as theres already been a few offers....not to many cars have passed EPA & DECCW and be engineered for the the big single, front mount and airbox.

more info on the R34 GTR M-spec:

JUN 2.7L stroker kit

JUN 280deg. camshafts, retainers and valve springs

JUN oil pump

CRD 9L sump

ARP head studs

JUN main studs

competition engine bearings

Gates timing belt

Mines cam baffle plates

JUN vavle guides

Head fully race ported & polished + machined for oversized valves

ROSS harmonic balancer and pulleys

HKS TO4Z turbo kit

JUN plenum

90mm Infinity throttle body

Ferrera vaves & locks

SARD 1000cc fuel injectors

SARD fuel rail

TRUST 165 wide drag intercooler

TRUST alloy radiator

CRD spec water pump

TRUST blow off valve

OS Giken quad plate clutch

I'd say you can guess close enough the rest.....car has over $80,000 in mods alone

all with only 6000kms on them,

  • 2 weeks later...

for those that asked to separate...... $45,000 for the motor

and non refundable deposit before its removed

Car will then be returned to stock $75,000

So yes cheaper to buy as it is but up to buyer I guess

  • 2 weeks later...

Keen to part with the front seats?

Yep keen to part with front seats but only if you buy rear also. I'll sell them to you for a one off special price $98,000 and will chuck the car in with them for free......

Sex right there, ur gonna regret selling your dream car

I finally got into my 1st GTR "WAR33R" after defeating cancer. I always wanted a tuff all rounder (street, drag & track car) and could look no further then a GTR how ever I truly wanted a R34. Now I have finally full filled my dream 2 times over with my R33 NITTO build and R34 JUN build, only to now be having eye issues. This year I've already had 3 surgeries to re attach my retina try this out

and BTW your awake the whole time. Unfortunately due to this I'm not able to keep cars. Both builds where from built to handle a lot more then I have had the chance to give them but unfortunately they don't pay the bills so since I can enjoy them anymore they must sadly go.
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...