Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I live in Sydney, and am currently actively looking for a R34 GT-T (see my sig for more info)

I think I may have found one, and was hoping one of you could recommend a workshop I could take it to for a thorough mechanical check (with a written report). Of course, I'd be willing to pay for the service but that's not the main point here.

Basically, what I am asking is, who (as in what workshop) would you trust to check your potential purchase before you forked over a large amount of $$$.

Places like Powerplay come to my mind straight away, so tell me what you think of them, or perhaps suggest other places?

On a final note, is NRMA a waste of money? (I am thinking yes from what I read and hear, but please confirm).

Any help / advice you can give me as to where to take the car would be greatly appreciated. Thank you :)

UAS (www.nismo.com.au)

Hillsmotorsport (good luck trying to ring them)

NRMA are good. Although they don't specialise in Skylines as UAS / Hills do, all cars have essentially the same things to run as one another, and they do have "specialists" who check cars all day everyday.

I have always used BD4s in Gladesville and they have done a great job everytime. They are also official Australian distributors for HKS and have HKS certified mechanics.

When I bought my baby, the first thing I did was take it to them for a service and they were extremely helpfull and performed a detailed inspection. Quoted prices for repairs were accurate and they are always communicating with you if something is wrong or they require to do further work due to an unforseen problem.

Speak to George and see what they can do for you. http://www.bd4s.com.au

I haven't had any experience with UAS service center and have only bought parts from them, but they do specialise in nissan imports.

Hope it all works out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...