Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys looks like im up for a new clutch. when going down the qtr .. i cant smash 4th, it locks me out but will go in if i gently put it in. besides that all gears select fine. but a little notchy in normal driving

i dont know the brand of the clutch but it makes a chi-ching noise on start up (sounds boss)

so before i come to big dollars of new synchros il do the clutch

racepace have advised to get the nismo twin plate. has a hefty price tag..

what clutch have you guys used? what price? how many kms do you get out of it? is it good for qtr mile launches? (i dont track)

i just want a long lasting clutch because the one i got is appently only 10000km old

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399153-what-clutch-to-get-in-34-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh i know its the best clutch hence why the recommended it. i made my own thread because of my situation

what kms people getting out of the clutch? where can i buy it from and whats the difference between the c spec?

Aaaahhhh, this old chest nut. Seems to be the new hit topic.

Coppermix fanbois, how are we? Haha

Mate if you got dosh, buy the coppermix, if you're stinge then get a npc 10"single button.

Easy peasy.

As for mileage, mr pig did a lot of abuse and the clutch still looks mint. So if you're worried about durability, don't be. Just don't ride the clutch.

Have you been riding the clutch you have currently?

yeh i know its the best clutch hence why the recommended it. i made my own thread because of my situation

what kms people getting out of the clutch? where can i buy it from and whats the difference between the c spec?

Just did 35,000 of hard kms with close to 400 RWKW most of its life. Easily 250 7000 RPM launches on it. Engine came out 2 months ago and it's going straight back in. No rebuild, no new plates.

C spec is rated at 780 ps where as the normal version is 640 ps

KM will obviously depend on what sort of life you put it through.

Regarding sourcing one, I suggest you speak with Andrew from Kudos Motorsports - nice guy and knows his stuff. www.kudosmotorsports.com

Nismo kit comes with light weight flywheel - etc already too.

Hope this helps.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

yeh i got the oil changed and apperntly the wrong oil was put in before hand. dumb c**ts

so now theres the catrol pil in it. it has helped a bit but will need a clutch

i wont go stingy il get the best out there but i want my moneys worth. if i buy it myself i can save some money . anyone know some good suppliers to compare prices?

as for riding the clutch. all i do is find friction point then a split second im off the clutch. just to save the jolt.. is this wrong?

the gears felt the same before i baught it to now . it was only the 400m that i noticed 4th had issues

Best supplier for those is; elrodeo666 on these forums. He is in Japan now, so send him a PM and he may take a few days to reply but don't stress, he's a very honest and helpful person and the prices are great.

Best supplier for those is; elrodeo666 on these forums. He is in Japan now, so send him a PM and he may take a few days to reply but don't stress, he's a very honest and helpful person and the prices are great.

+1 sourced my coppermix twin thru him, great guy to deal with and was very fast delivery from jap

Does he manage to get parts past customs and GST? I'm not a fan of unnecessarily paying tax and duty.

Never paid anything and thats including a Nismo intercooler.

Even the head is coming in 'carry on luggage' haha!

Never paid anything and thats including a Nismo intercooler.

Even the head is coming in 'carry on luggage' haha!

it's amasing what can be stuffed in a bag and shoved in the over head,

I have Excedy twin in the 32, and Excedy triple in the 34, not had a drama with either, the twin is silent and drive better then the factory clutch and has about 1000 7500rpm launchs and this kind of abuse

the triple is a bit niosey and a bit bitey, but takes the same abuse without fail

Just did 35,000 of hard kms with close to 400 RWKW most of its life. Easily 250 7000 RPM launches on it. Engine came out 2 months ago and it's going straight back in. No rebuild, no new plates.

C spec is rated at 780 ps where as the normal version is 640 ps

That is very impressive !!

will have serious look at them next time round !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...