Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just after a clarification more than anything,

I am running a Hi Energy style winged sump on my RB25/30DET and it has come the time to do my first 5000km oil change.

Now, I assume that since the pickup is in the same position as on the RB30 SOHC, the oil level (as per the dipstick) will still be accurate? I should fill the engine with oil as per normal upto the full line?

How I understand that the design of these sumps work is that they simply have the same profile of the OEM sump upto the oil pickup but are slightly deeper and wider overall than the OEM RB30 sump. Its this extra width and depth which gives you the higher capacity of oil.

Edited by R32Abuser

Oil dipsticks never touch the bottom of the oil sump, usually have to put 3l in before it will even register on a stock sump. It will probably take 4-6l before it registers on your setup

Yeh as I expected. Since the pickup location has not changed, and the dipstick is as per stock, you fill the thing like normal.

Just needed a confirmation.

Just need to find somewhere which sells Motul 8100 Excess 5W-40 for cheap. Too bad I have to get 2 bottles worth... :angry:

Dobz - Yeah found it for $59 a bottle at Repco on clearance.

NYTSKY - IIRC the sump I have is exactly the same as the Hi energy racing sump for the RB30 which are gated and baffled around the pick-up... not just an enlarged sump. Also comparing the items side by side, majority of the additional capacity is gained in increasing the sumps width, not depth. Therefore there would be no massive benefit in extending the pick-up as the oil starvation issue is being reduced via the gating and baffling.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...