Jump to content
SAU Community

Change Diff From A-Lsd To Mechanical

tricstar
 Share

Recommended Posts

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

ok due to the head fxxk of the A-LSD, I've decided to change to a mechanical LSD,

so do I just need the standard diff housing? can it be an R32 GTR one ( my car is R33 GTR ), is there any difference? also will the drive shafts and tail shaft bolt staight up to the standard diff?

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Get one to suit a 33gtr and everything will bolt up. Go new though as usually you get everything you will need, instead of going 2nd hand and having stuff missing

but from what I have read, I need to change the whole diff housing as there is no after market diff centre to fit into the Active-LSD housing?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I just went through it all. :)

You need to change diff housing to a R33 GTR Non V-Spec. Not expensive, can get them for 200-300 2nd hand.

I thought you needed the non-spec shafts as they are different lengths when you measure.

But it turns out the actual shafts are the same length, it's the coupling big (forget the technical name, bit where the shaft connects with) that is slightly different and I believe it can be purchase separate if you cannot get shafts to suit

Makes it easier/faster if you can get the housing with the shafts together obviously.

The car with a Nismo 1.5 GT Pro is 10000% better than with the crappy A-LSD, which has no upgrade options.

It's set to the lowest lock setting and still locks incredibly hard when you want, very predictable. Any more I think would be too much.

My car now behaves like a RWD car in terms of hooking around @ a motorkhana with a bit of clutch or trailing throttle lock-up and turn - yet straighten the wheels and it 4 wheel power slides nicely or grips and goes depending on what you want.

Also induces some good mid corner oversteer where previously it would just understeer/plough off terribly doing the same things ;)

I didn't realise how bad the A-LSD was until changing over... I don't wanna sell the car now it's changed it that much

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I don't know mate - I was told to get a R33 rear end specifically.

I know the part numbers for R32 & R33 are the same in terms of the Nismo differential... Doesn't mean the housings are though...

Someone will be able to confirm though 100%

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
Posted

I just did this in my gtst. I bought a second hand regular gtst diff and just threw it in.... everything fitted up fine for me, the only thing i needed was a new set of nuts and bolts to connect the halfshafts to the axles as the a-lsd halfshafts were threaded and the gtst ones were not....

Ripped out the pump and reservoir as well.

At the time I just shimmed the new diff, but thats shit and only lasted a few weeks and I absolutely locked the fark out of it.... next mod is either a kaaz or nismo centre.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Ye that doesn't surprise me.

Ideally yes you want diff & axles. It just makes it a simple bolt in/out (once you do the centre.)

But... if you can't get the shafts, you can use your v-spec ones as they are the same length. It's just the the coupling bit that's the different length betweeen VS and non-VS (the technical name for the part still escapes me)...

I can find out the proper name and shit next week exactly and report back. I doubt you'll find a R33 non-VS rear in a couple days. I was looking for a good 2 months for one priced appropriately.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

spoke to a mate in the know last night and the R32 GTR diff and axles is a touch shorter...

so I'm after a R33 GTR non-Vspec diff and axles, anyone ??

Yes they are, I have measured them as I have a R32 GTR diff. from a 1994 car to replace my A-LSD. Just need some spacers machined, from memory it is only about 5mm.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK I've got the Non V-spec diff and axles,

now I have a few questions about what to do regarding the hydraulics and electrics?

My thinking is, just block off the hydraulics from the pump under the car and rip everything from there to the diff out.. I'm thinking I shouldn't need to cut or disconnect any wiring (except the obvious between pump and diff) as the new diff will be locked before any signal is sent.? Being that the A-LSD is on the same circuit as the AWD I don't want to hack it and then get faults with the AWD ?

How do others do it ? What have you blocked off, cut etc?? (Nismoid)?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

cool, can you also have a look and see if they blocked off the line from reservoir in the boot or just the line from solenoid to diff?I should do a DIY when I do the swap for future reference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...