Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That may be so, but if anyone here is actually listening to me then you would have read....crack the INTERNAL ring of the harmonic balancer. Sure you might have gotten away with it this time, maybe not...but it is a fact that 9 out of 10 will crack that ring. You will still get the balancer off most of the time but the ring is only cast steel and only about 1.5 mm thick. The balancer won't be visibly damaged but down the track you will spin it and then it's stuffed.

You can chose to take my advise or not...it's your funeral. I'm only speaking from experience.

thats the reason they have the holes there so you can bolt your gear puller on , that way you wont break anything .

  • 5 months later...

I've been reading up and found this post. I'm about to undertake a timing belt swap over. I have a puller that I bought at supercheap, I think it is called a harmonic balancer puller. Is this not right for the job?

Also what is the best way to undo the crank pulley bolt? If you put it in gear and handbrake on and you use a breaker bar on it do you stand the chance of wrecking your gearbox if the crank spins?

Is it hard to replace the crank seal once the pulley is off?? I heard somebody in a thread saying it took a long time just for this bit.

Cheers

Dad made up a special puller for harmonic balancers on skylines - don't get a normal claw puller just as 3litfors3 has said - you may wreck your harmonic balancer - I can get dad to take a photo of it if you like.

As long as you can fit it in there that will do the job .

First undo the bolt a few turns , i would you the starter to undo it , then put your puller on and when it comes loose undo the bolt .

you will find its a lot easier using the starter to undo it , you can lock it in gear and handbrake on but you will find it has a lot of slack and it will be hard to undo .

I usualy use a rattle gun if the engine is out but you cant fit the gun cause the radiator is in the way .

The bolt will be very tight , about 450 nm on the rb26 , i hope you have a big 3/4 " bar to do it up , you can only use the starter to undo it .

I hope you know how to set the cam timing and ajust the timing belt tension .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
    • Sweet, yeah hoping stock gears will hold up. May use the transbrake feature on hill climb starts so that will test it.
    • Yeah, the thread is only nearly 20 years old.
    • Been down in Tassie for 2 weeks (a cruise, not a race for once) but spent a little time on her when I got back. I worked out the injector settings in the PowerFC were not correct for nismo 555s, set those to 66% +10ms and added a little air at closed throttle, set the timing (approximately, because it has some weird non 15o cells around idle) and now she starts and idles properly. She purrs like a kitten (ignore the co2 alarm in the background, I did  ) 20250518_171052.mp4 Next step, off for run-in, tuning and alignment!
×
×
  • Create New...