Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is the third car and I have built it mainly for Time Attacks and Sprints. It’s an original ‘Type M’ so it has the GTR rear spoiler, pods and skirts as standard. I have paid extra attention to detail with respect of setting the car up as a good track car while also making everything on it roadworthy and legal with mod plates. I have lots of receipts for work done on the car. The car currently has an agreed policy with Shannons for more than the asking price. The car has 105,000 original kms on it.

I have only done a couple of track days with it since I’ve really finished it. We now have two small kids and I don’t have enough time to enjoy it properly.

The car always gets comments on how clean it is and how much thought has gone into setting it up.

Engine and horsepower wise I have gone for a reliable setup as opposed to a big horsepower setup. I had the Nistune installed and tuned by EFI Performance who are one of the most highly regarded Nissan tuners in SEQ.

The car has never let me down anywhere, anytime.

It has never been drifted (I have done a coupe of wet skid pan training sessions though) and has always been warmed up properly and driven with mechanical sympathy.

It has been meticulously maintained. Good quality oils and coolant have been used and changed every 6 months or 2000kms.

The car has done hardly any work at all.

It would be a nice hobby car for someone to track occasionally, great to track full time or great to just go for a cruise.

Serious buyers only need contact me. The car has rego until January 2013 and will be sold with registration and roadworthy.

WHILE I AM SLIGHTLY NEGOTIABLE ON PRICE, THE PRICE REFLECTS THE CONDITION, DOLLARS SPENT ON, AND PREPARATION OF THIS CAR. IF YOU ARE A TYRE KICKER OR WANTING A CHEAP AND ABUSED SKYLINE, THIS ONE PROBABLY ISN’T FOR YOU.

Asking $13,990

Ph: 0412 547 402

Suspension and handling:

- Tein Coilovers

- Whiteline Front and Rear adjustable sway bars

- Front camber bushes

- Rear Camber arms (mod plated and complied)

- Factory Nissan Front and Rear strut braces

- Rear steer Hicas removed (properly) along with all plumbing (mod plated and complied)

Wheels and Tyres:

- Federal 595RSR semi-slick tyres all round

- Volk Racing Fortessr wheels 17X8 (+35) stripped back and painted satin black (These are the original TE37 are very rare and expensive, they are also fully forged and very lite)

Brakes:

- New Front R34 GTR DBA 4000 324mm rotors (mod plate and complied for this brake upgrade)

- Endless ME20 front pads

- Near new rear slotted rotors

- Endless CCX rear pads

- Brake master cylinder stopper

- ADR braided brake lines

Diff:

- 1.5 way Kaaz mechanical motorsport LSD

- Tomei diff oil used

Cooling:

- Large GReddy front mount intercooler

- Large front mount oil cooler and filter relocator

- Large alloy radiator

Engine

- Stock RB20det

- HKS intake

- Cold air intake

- Cold air box

- Hiflo steel wheel turbo running 14.5 to 15psi (rebuilt and high flowed in January 2012 with less than 1000kms on it)

- 550cc Denso injectors

- Nistune ECU

- Greddy Profec Spec B boost controller

- Superspark aftermarket coilpacks

- Walbro in tank upgraded fuel pump

- Sard fuel pressure regulator

- Tuned for a reliable and ultra safe 180rwkw in January 2012.

Exhaust

- 3 inch exhaust

- Big after marker dump pipe

- 200cell stainless steel cat (biggest legal)

Other:

- Custom made weld in half cage with harness bar and CAMs approval paperwork (not a cheap bolt in) (mod plated and engineered) The car has now been complied as a two seater also.

- ADR race seat (mod plated and engineered)

- ADR four point racing harnesses (mod plated and engineered)

- OMP steering wheel

- Blow off valve plumped back (so it’s legal)

- Custom oil catch can plumbed back so it’s legal. I have included heavy duty filters in it, as well as an oil/water separator between the catch can and the intake to stop and filter media or oil vapours getting into the intake.

- I have sourced a full size spare. I also have the space saver.

post-66731-0-82924300-1336792881_thumb.jpg

post-66731-0-26692900-1336792897_thumb.jpg

post-66731-0-53175700-1336792905_thumb.jpg

post-66731-0-80727700-1336792930_thumb.jpg

post-66731-0-67485400-1336792938_thumb.jpg

post-66731-0-42983200-1336792948_thumb.jpg

post-66731-0-96444400-1336792966_thumb.jpg

post-66731-0-94414800-1336792975_thumb.jpg

Edited by NW007
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

$12,990 Negotiable.

Has current Qld Safety Certificate and is ready to sell. I may be keen to swap for the right Honda or MX5 with cash my way. Not keen on falcadores or 4wds. I already have two family cars.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...