Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am selling my Grandma's car and have no idea what it is worth.

It is a 1983 Nissan Datsun Skyline

24 6 Cylinder

Auto

151,000 K's

10 months rego

1 owner with original papers

IMG_0161_1.jpg

IMG_0157_1.jpg

IMG_0164_1.jpg

IMG_0159_1.jpg

IMG_0165_1-1.jpg

IMG_0162_1.jpg

IMG_0163_1.jpg

Edited by HIRISK

My goodness that thing's clean.

Being an L24E it might be desirable to someone if only for the engine.

I'm trying to picture it hotted up, ie. big wheels, lowered, colour coded and a decent huffer pumping air into the the motor, but just can't see it which is a shame because it looks unbelievably straight.

If there's no rust and paint is great I'd push for a bit over 2k..Maybe 2.5k with rwc. That front end is gorgeous, Little features like the headlight covers and rim trim rings add to appeal. This is one MR30 that should stay original and be cared for.

Just had a chat with Dad as I have not looked at the car in a while.

Apparently...

- No rust

- Never been in an accident

- Motor is original and un-opened

- My Grandparents bought it brand new in 1983 and have owned it ever since

- Has been well maintained

I am going to go and have a look properluy on the weekend to get a good feel for where it is at.

Getting a RWC will definitely add value to the car. At a guess this is one of the rare examples where the money you invest in the RWC will be more than recovered in the sale price. Have a mechanic do a pre RWC inspection and give you a list - if there are any, of the things that need to be fixed before he signs the certificate.

A bit of polish and Amour All and that engine bay would look a million dollars, too.

  • 3 weeks later...

You know that Vic Roads has dramatically reduced the requirements for what constitutes a roadworthy windscreen? Now a windscreen is only unroadworthy if it has a star +16mm in the area covered by the wipers, a crack +150mm covered by the wipers or is so generally badly damaged, scratched or discoloured you can't see out of it.

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/7A14DDDC-3DF3-4ADD-9821-B8C7816777A3/0/VSI26web.pdf

Most mechanics ignore the Vicroads requirements and still pick the windscreen over damage outside the area covered by the wipers, or insignificant marks that do not impair the visibility of the road. This is very irritating.

Good luck with your sale at any rate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...