Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I had a few scratches on the side of my car, and i was going to touch it up with some touch up paint, and then use a cutting compound to bring it back to level... BUT it turned out a LOT uglier than i expected, and the cutting compound did nothing.

I ended up getting lumps over the places i painted (even though i tried my best to paint it evenly) and whenever i use the cutting compound over the paint, it never looks like it's even getting closer to the paint level of the rest of the car. I've been doing it by hand, because i dont have an orbital polisher, but i spent about an hour on it and the level of the touch up painted parts look the same as when i started using the compound :\

here's a photo of it,

Help please?

post-88438-0-61977400-1337405364_thumb.jpg

Edited by suwidji
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400548-big-mistake-in-touch-up-paint-help/
Share on other sites

did the touch up paint have instructions on it? ive got some scratches on my car and ill be fixing them sometime in the near future - but not if it turns out like that... i thought the touch up paint was like a pen that basically just filled in the scratch?

Look, you're never going to get a perfect result on black using touch up paint; that's just life unfortunately.

I think your expectation and reality are fairly different, you may have to accept that if you want a flawless finish; basically wiping paint on to your car is not going to work.

I also have a black car which someone rather generously keyed down to the undercoat; and it sticks out like dogs balls. I'm just going to repaint the entire panels. I'd rather not, but you are seeing the alternative.

I can only propose an alternative for the future; the reason touch up paint kits are tough is because you are applying with a brush obviously.

In extremely small doses i've been able to hide small scars and inperfections by getting an aerosol made up and piling tape around the scratch; literally with milimeters of spacing trying to leave the gap exactly the same size as the scratch; and spraying the aerosol in one or two quick motions. It's still tricky and difficult and it doesn't look as good.

Your main problem there is the "bubbling" effect where the surface is not smooth... i guess the first step would be to get somebody to try and sand it down flat... i don't know. maybe a pro could do it with a machine sander, maybe he'd do it by hand.

gumflapper, it didn't come with instructions, I got it made up at autobarn

damn I was scared the answer would be a professional job :( i'll try to sand it down with fine grit sandpaper and hopefully it works.

gumflapper, it didn't come with instructions, I got it made up at autobarn

damn I was scared the answer would be a professional job :( i'll try to sand it down with fine grit sandpaper and hopefully it works.

Please be careful wet sanding. You dont want to go too far and break through the clear.

If the paint you applied is still fresh, you could try a more agressive compound to try and remove it and get you back to where you were before.

Try meguiars ultimate compound.

I've been doing it by hand, because i dont have an orbital polisher, but i spent about an hour on it and the level of the touch up painted parts look the same as when i started using the compound :\

Also, an oribtal polisher will not help you here.

Orbitals + Dual action polishers are not designed for hardcore paint correction such as this (not saying that they are not capable of it though).

They have a counter weight in them to avoid heat generation and prevent clear coat break through. Not as effective as your standard rotary polisher (such as panel shops use to manipulate the clear after spraying - orange peel - etc), but very safe for novice users.

To fix your problem, if you take it to a pro they will need to wet sand it down and then buff with agressive compound and then buff again with polish to restore shine and then wax to seal.

Its stuffed. Burn it with fire.

But seriously, just get it done properly. I think you can use cutting compound/fine grit all you want but that is never going to look good. Point is, you will always know its there- and your eyes will go straight too it all the time.

Get it done professionally, save up for a little while or whatever, and get it done properly. You'll never know it was there. Touch up paint is good for stone chips and the like not stuff like that.

  • 2 months later...

You must of applied way too much. You will have to get it sanded back and resprayed by a shop. What panel is it? If it's the front quarter it's very easy to get one of those hard discs (not sure of the proper name), put it in a drill and take the paint of yourself and then get a color coded spray can from autobarn and spray it your self. It won't look as good as a shop but cheap alternative.

Cutting compound was never going to work, the stuff is essentially used to get rid of orange peel or overspray and polish up an already good paint job. Your only option is to sand it back and go again. If you know how to spray then it's easy, but given you tried touch up paint originally I'm gonna assume you don't.

  • 2 weeks later...

Do not Wetsand the paintwork! if you cant apply touch up paint correctly chances are you will rub through. As mentioned above take it to a shop and ask them to sand and buff that area.

Have to agree after looking at your pic...

There are other scratches present too.

And ask the painter to make up some extra touch up paint for you > perfect match for the future.

I'm not happy with the "GV1" Pearl Black paint you had made up anyway.

And by the way, your car has been exposed to years of sunlight, rain.... You name it. You never get a colour match off a paint code. Best thing to do is to get the code and petrol flap and take it into a auto body supply store and get it properly matched. Paint fades over time.

Paint fades over time.

Sure does, I remember one of my black R34's when I got it, the paint was a different colour to one of the other panels which had been freshly painted.

I compounded and polished the whole car and the paint matched perfectly after the love.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

Paint fades over time.

Sure does, I remember one of my black R34's when I got it, the paint was a different colour to one of the other panels which had been freshly painted.

I compounded and polished the whole car and the paint matched perfectly after the love.

I just finished rubbing back and respraying my car's guard. Was pretty easy as the guard was off the car. The only thing I stuffed up on was the clear coat as I ran out after 2 coats. I a going to get it buffed and see how it goes. So if you get another spray can and some clear give it a go.

Edited by cree

You will never get a perfect finish from a spray can. This is the reason I invested in a $1000 compressor and a $500 spray gun.

That is very true, but it a quick temporary fix until you can get it re-done professionally.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...