Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

At the moment ive just got my pod sitting in the engine bay and i dont think its doing the best thing for performance. So i want to ask all the people that have bought those Cold air boxes from the group buys, what do you think of them? Are they worthwhile? Did you notice any difference in power?

Is it worth me spending close to $200 on one, or as i have seen some other people just buy a special material from clark rubber and just use it as a divider is that just as good?

Im leaning towards buying the divider from clark rubber, as its cheaper and i get the feeling that the aluminum boxes would get very hot having such a small enclosed space. Also i just want to know what is the material called? Id like to know what im asking the person behind the counter :D

Cheers

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40102-people-with-cai-boxes/
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

I had HKS Pods on my GTR, when we fitted the new turbo's and all my upgrades we opted to throw out the Pods and re-fit the standard airbox with a KN Filter. Considering my upgrades and comparing them to other GTR with pods, I made the same power if not more, I also noticed I can't hear my blow valves anymore... Personally I found in hot weather with the Pods you really felt the heat & power loss, we'll see how the standard box goes.

Some food for thought, the Mines R34GTR N1 runs standard airbox with a mines fliter, and it produced the the lap record at tzsukba [spelling]

well i fitted mine weeks ago.. considering the quality of contruction and how every little hole was exactly the right place, i reckon it was $160 well spent. Only really because i already had the pod, and going back to a box would cost more than staying with the pod.

But as for performance.. only drove it one day with the box on. When i get it back will do some more "in depth" testing. I did notice the heat soak previously there, especially when driving in traffic and the like.

MJ, not sure where you got the $200 figure, I organised the group buy, and they're $160 delivered from Perth.

Jimbo, I went from standard airbox with K&N panel filter to Apexi dual funnel and CAI box. Definitely seems more responsive, love the sound, the box itself doesn't heat up much at... If you're after insulation stuff, I just went onto a building site and asked the guys for a metre or so of that insulation stuff they use in walls. Used race tape to really seal the box up nice and tight.

I bought some of that worm like plastic piping that bends (? what it's called) which was $10. Hear of other people just using drain pipe too! Gonna make some sort of bracket up for the end that sits inside the box and make something up to fit my front bar so I get direct air feed.

Nice mod to do, as you dress up your engine bay, healthier for your engine and you would have to get a few extra kilowatts out of this mod.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...