Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

most coilovers for stagea are just gtr ones with s14 rear top plates and they dont work PROPERLY. i wouldnt suggest stock gtr shocks either as there is alot of difference between a coupe and a wagon. chase up KYB with the part number stamped on the shocks. if that doesnt work you may have to get a set of stockers refurbished. id suggest teins or genuine nismo stuff as its the only shocks made to suit stagea.

What's the problem with the function of the majority of coilovers Ray?

called KYB aus distributor today, straight up NO on anything JDM. Im thinking ill just leave it for now and figure something out another day when i have some spare cash or when something pops up cheap. genuines were quoted at $190ea front, $330ea rears and that's trade!

You need to go to a better distributor, i got genuine KYB replacement shocks for an r33 off the shelf from a distributor in brisbane. I would guess they could get stagea ones if u have the part no. off them. If ur interested i'll look for the name.

Edited by Raysboostin

What's the problem with the function of the majority of coilovers Ray?

Not so much function, as the setup doesnt suit the application. Out of the ones ive tried the rears are just never right. Ive spent alot of time and money changing springs and making adjustments which amounted to very little. The valving of the shocks on a wagon are not the same as a coupe, so the gtr rears dont really work. But its really relative to use. If u never carry anything in the back or go to the track u prob wont notice the inbalance. Your better off spending the money on a set ofcoilovers designed for a stagea. Rather than a cheap generic set adapted to bolt into anything.

You need to go to a better distributor, i got genuine KYB replacement shocks for an r33 off the shelf from a distributor in brisbane. I would guess they could get stagea ones if u have the part no. off them. If ur interested i'll look for the name.

thanks, i found some Tein struts pretty cheap, if fulcrum ever get back to me, they'll be heading there for servicing then in they go

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...