Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to upgrade my braking setup, so need to sell my existing setup.

Firstly, boredom and having no life other then my car is the main reason for an upgrade :Oops: they function perfectly on my car and on merit dont require replacing

So for sale will be :

- 328 x 30mm slotted 1-pce front rotors x 2. They are about 30,000kms old, have never been machined and operate perfectly, so have plenty of service left in them. Rotors have only been run with RB74 pad, which isnt overly aggressive and doesnt eat up the rotors, hence the good wear eveidnt on the rotors.

- Std Nissan 4 pot front calipers. They were fully rebuilt about 30,000kms ago by Race brakes (who supplied rotors and adaptor to mount the caliper on bigger rotos) Since the rebuild the calipers have only ever been run with AP Racing 5.1 fluid, and is regularly flushed with fresh fluid (overkill?? maybe but they have worked great when at the track so i stick with what i know)

The brake setup has been used about 8-10 times at Eastern and Wakefield, and has never given a moments problem as far as fade or consistancy, even when using R-compund rubber. Even during a little over 20 minutes of lapping Wakefield the brakes weren't even smoking, let alone fading at the end of it....and brakes have always been carefully cooled after runs at the track, hence no warping, vibration etc under brakes and agin, discs have never been machined.

Caliper will come with RB74 pads, about 50% worn, which are only the 2nd set of pads used since the upgrade, which should be an indication of how easily the car is driven day to day.

So is a bolt on proposition for an R32 GTST, pending the extent of my upgrade may be able to provide with braided lines, rebuilt master cylinder and rebuilt brake booster (all 30,000kms ago)

For the calipers/mount and rotors im asking for approx $1000.

Welcome to drive car with setup currently installed on car to see what you think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40170-eoi-r32-gtst-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Umm are these just standard 4 pot r32 calipers with a pair of slotted rotors?

I paid $350 for a set like this (but with standard rotors in average condition) in Sydney about 18 months ago for a mate who wanted them for his Silvia. Oh and that was with a set of near new pagid race pads.

Just thought id let you know for price comparison purposes.

Red17

Yeh std caliper with bigger rotors and the new mounting bracket.

I normally see the caliper for about $300-400, so since mine have been rebuilt so pistons stroke smoothly and freely. and come with much bigger rotors (280mm v 330mm) with more vanes, i figured $500 for the calipers, $400 for the rotors and $100 for the pads, brackets and bolts.

Just for a comparison.

Stock R32 GTST:

280mm x 30mm

Stock R32 GTR:

296mm x 32mm

R32/R33/R34 GTR V-Spec:

324mm x 30mm

The brakes should be compared to a set of R32 GTR V-Spec Items.

Obviously the V-Specs run the bigger callipers.

The Std R32 GTR uses the same callipers as the R32 GTST with a slightly different mounting position to allow for the larger rotor. This is where Roy's new calliper mount comes in to it.

So they cannot really be compared to the general run of the mill GTST brakes.

The R32 GTR caliper has 4 x 40.4mm pistons, so does the R32 GTST caliper. The R32 V-Spec II Brembo caliper has 44mm leading and 38mm trailing diam pistons.

The R33 and R34 GTST calipers all use the same diam pistons as the R32 caliper, whilst the Brembo brakes accross the R33 and R34 range again all use the same piston diameters as the R32 V Spec II.

So if you can get the brakes off an R34 GTST, ie 310mm with R34 calipers (similar kms as my rebuilt units) then they would represent a similar $$$ value to what im trying to sell. Even still the rotors will still be slightly smaller and not grooved, pads maybe not as good, and would need a bracket to fit them.

So thats my thoughts, if you think they are too pricey then i can respect that.

  • 1 month later...

My car needs more bling, have to sell the calipers, also rotors if anyone is interested...though it appears i may be able to reuse the rotors with the new setup

The oly pic i have of the car with the rotors is here ...if you zoom in you can see the larger slotted front rotors

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...