Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have a 2002 Stagea, VQ25(DD) engine and the other day the a/c belt started breaking apart. It actually cut a hole in one of the a/c hoses.

The belt is still on but its now only half as wide as it should be :wacko:

Should I cut it off so it doesn't do any more damage? Since its the middle of winter I don't care if I have to go without a/c for a little while.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. If you need any more info or pics let me know.

Thanks

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402170-ac-belt-issues-m35-stagea/
Share on other sites

Replace both the belts mate. Its only a small job, and I think you can get them commonly at autoshops- just ask for 350z drive belts.

Did mine- Think I payed $30 or something for the belts- no much.

I'd be more worried about the AC pipe- do you still have AC or has all the gas gone?

So you mean replace the cam belt or is there another smaller one that I'm not seeing?.

Do you have to take the pulleys off or do you just slip the new belts on?

A/C has gone, Alot of fluid got squirted up onto the bottom of the air filter box, the hole is on top of the rubber hose that is directly below the air box.

there no cam belt, its the accessory belts youre talking about.

there are adjustments on the tension pully for each belt. you undo the locking bolt, then unscrew the pully to put plenty of slack on the belt to remove it. then do the reverse to put it back on. dont do them up too tight or too loose. do both belts.

the AC pipe will need to be repaired and regassed. go to an automotive AC specialist for that.

no camshaft belts on our M35's. engine belt and AC belt only. If you are in Sydney, I can recommend a mobile AC guy, I was very happy with the job he did on my car, beit he was little expensive. I had the hose that connected to the compressor to the chassis mounted AC plumbing replaced, as well as both belts and a re-gas/ condensor clean.

the two drive belts on the front of the engine. drives the alternator, power steering, AC. You won't have to take the Pulleys off, just loosen the nut in the centre of the idler pulleys, and then use the tensioners (the really long bolts) to back off the tension, remove belt, slip new belts on in right order, and in the right route, tension, and tighten up the idler pulleys again.

Then take it to an AC place, and get them to make up a new line, and fill the AC system again. And let it be a lesson to you to check your belts for signs of cracking!

Car doesn't have a timing belt, it has a chain. If in doubt take it to a mechanic who knows what they are doing.

Thanks for your help....... I should know its chain driven, bit of a noob moment.

Its a new import and I haven't serviced it yet, its getting a service in the next few days.

I think I will have a crack at replacing the belts myself. How do I make sure I get the right tension? I can understand what would happen if they were too tight or too loose.

Thanks again.

I'm sure that there is a real complicated way of doing it in the FSM, but rule of thumb that I go off, is that you find the longest length of belt, and if you can depress it by hand about 1cm or so, then it'll be ok. If its loose you'll hear it "screech" on start up or quick rev, its its too tight, it'll flog out the bearings in the ancillaries.

Other people have different ways?

  • 4 years later...

I just replaced my Ac belt on my nm35 now it wont pick up untill around 3000rpm it's alright if Ur going but when u stop at lights or stop sign  Then it takes off ....any ideas what i have done wrong.....im not a car guy i just like driving them not working on them :)))

Edited by Smokie86

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...