bennyb110

Sold. Thanks

It's been while since surfing sau. Having sold my wagon late last year, I cleaning out my shed and found this awesome cruise control kit. For sale , Command model AP900 cruise control and speed limiter kit to suit M35 stagea/ V35 skyline . item is new unused, complete kit . Includes steering column control stalk. kit was developed by Long time M35 stagea SAU member. Commsman. Original thread here. Asking price $550 neg. please leave a PM or email at [email protected] cheers

bought a set of these, over a year ago, no issues so far. http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s354916029

For those looking for a Dolphin brand, intake Suction pipe. http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w90430150

Unfortunately they were long gone when I called a couple of weeks ago...

WTB. DR30 front struts. Hi, I,m on the lookout for a pair of DR30 front struts. Please leave a PM with details. All leads appreciated. cheers benny

WTB. DR30 front struts. Hi, I,m on the lookout for a pair of DR30 front struts. Please leave me a PM. All leads appreciated. cheers benny

I have a spare set of the tubes spaces and bolts if needed. I had two sets made when I fitted R32 calipers on my AXIS. Located in Sydney.

My machine stalled for the first time today. I get the same ~ kms per tank as stated by the original thread poster. I have not replaced the CAM sensors, so i'm going to give that a try. No fault codes have logged yet, so that is a bit concerning. The stall happened when coming to a halt at traffic lights. Car drives just fine under load. Not entirely sure what going on. AFM, crank, O2 sensor and fuel filter have all been replaced. Im at a bit of a loss as to what the issue is.

Finally got around to fitting a full radius bell-mouth in the factory air-box. Happy with the fit and yet to see if the Airflow properties have improved performance. its certainly better than the crude OEM bellmouth IMO.

The last time I looked into getting replacement ballast resistors for the NM35 HID, I came to the conclusion that I should be able to use new units from a 2001 - 03 Lexus RX300, sourced off Fleabay.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/01-02-03-LEXUS-RX300-XENON-HID-HEADLIGHT-BALLAST-module-control-unit-computer-/261191900012?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ALexus&hash=item3cd0401b6c&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1414

Here two links to window regulator motors on ebay US. Not to badly priced either. http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-05-06-INFINITI-G35-4DR-PASSENGER-RIGHT-SIDE-FRONT-WINDOW-REGULATOR-OEM-/330861724710?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AInfiniti%7CModel%3AG35%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A3.5L&hash=item4d08e54426&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-Infiniti-G35-sedan-right-front-passenger-window-motor-OEM-/330784062875?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AInfiniti%7CModel%3AG35%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A3.5L&hash=item4d04443d9b&vxp=mtr

I found using a tyre lever with a 90 degree tip is the perfect tool for removing the drivers side CV from the diff. I found it a little easier than the wide blade screw driver with adjustable spanner on the end of it.

I recently had all 4 CV boots replaced at Sydney Drive Shaft in Carlton NSW. CV joints were inspected and re-greased. They charged me $140 cash. I did the labour of removing them from the car and taking them to the workshop. They were done in just over an hour. For that kind of money I wouldn't bother changing the boots myself anymore. The only hassle I had was getting the CV shaft locknut off on the passenger side. I broke 2, half inch breaker bars [ irony ] and ended up borrowing a snap on high torque rattle .gun

The Core is the hard part to find. New genuine from Nissan, prices are as follows. http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=233106N160 . I wonder if the core "Armature Assembly" is common in other hitachi starters. Part number is 23310-6N160 I will have a hunt around and see what I can dig up.

Took the old non working starter apart last night for inspection. The brushes were completely shot. The residue from the worn away brushes was all built up on and around the commutator and surrounding brush holder assembly, which would not of been any good for trying to energise each separate winding on the armature. Anyway i ordered online this morning a new genuine brush assembly [Amayama.com] for $39.00 + ship, I should have it within a week or so. part number 23378-EN20A [old number] and replacement number 23378-0M300 http://www.amayama.c...h/?q=233780M300 The commutator was a little worn, so a quick clean up on the lathe should see it sorted and within working tolerance. I should have this unit overhauled and ready for service [a spare] in a couple of weeks. Thinking about the subject, most of the M35 in OZ are of similar age and would guess that more starter motors will start to fail. time will tell. Can i suggest that buying a replacement brush assembly would be cheap insurance and minimise the time the car is off the road. My starter began to turn slower and slower for a couple of days before it finally failed. cheers benny

Issue has been sorted.thanks. Car is back on the road. I managed to source a secondhand unit for $200. For reference. Hitachi unit, oem part number 23300-AL600 is the starter that fits our VQ25 engines.

Hi All, By chance does anyone have a spare /surplus M35 starter on hand. I am need of one asap if possible to keep the car on the road to do the school run in the mornings etc. Im located in Sydney. Battery is in good nick and is less than 12 months old and is rated at 660cca and load tests fine. I can hear the solenoid engage but the primary winding does not work.maybe brushes ,maybe shot winding or worn out commutator, not sure as yet. cheers benny

My Stags had similar symtoms as described. Light throttle would be fine, WOT and the power would cut in and out. It did throw an error for crank angle sensor though.... ECU [fault code] reset would restore functionality, but with time, the interval between faults was getting shorter and shorter. The sensor was the one located adjacent to the starter motor in the transmission bellhousing. Once I swapped it out, the performance was drastically improved. Trawl around ebay in the US for parts like the sensors for our engines as they are considerably cheaper. In this instance I managed to loacted a new in box genuine crank angle sensor for $19 US + ship. I would run the fault code procedure to identify or at least steer you in the right direction to tracking down the issue you are experiencing. cheers

I have a spare, send me a PM with a contact number. Im in Sydney also cheers

I have used www.amayama.com before, they are cheap and reliable. Shipping is not too bad either. I did a search for the part numbers you listed and the resu;ts are below in Australian dollars. cheers benny Search for part 64894AM600 Maker Original Number Name Price upon availability (AUDEURGBPJPYUSD) Delivery period (days) Stock Nissan 64894AM600 $ 23.42 20 Add to cart UAE Search for part 65278AM600 Maker Original Number Name Price upon availability (AUDEURGBPJPYUSD) Delivery period (days) Stock Nissan 65278AM600 $ 5.21 20 Add to cart UAE

I was going to do this myself also, but I rang my local CV joint and they did all four boots, supply inners and outers, clean, regrease and assemble for $120 cash for both shafts [not each]. I had to wait 45mins. Only labour involved was for me to remove the CV's from the car and take them to them. Very happy with the outcome and I could argue with the price. Also found using a tyre lever with a 90 degree tip is the perfect tool for removing the drivers side CV from the diff.

If you dont need the bearing(s) urgently, they can be had substantially cheaper on fleabay out of the US, search using the OEM part number.

My std BOV did similar, [fully hectic sound included] annoyed the crap out of me and made the car surge on light throttle transitions I took it off to check it out. Ended up having a ruptured diaphragm, I replaced it with std BOV off another VQ25det and the problem was solved, driving the car was so much better.

I have had a M35 bonnet [not out of shape] in the back of mine.