Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have a 2002 Stagea, VQ25(DD) engine and the other day the a/c belt started breaking apart. It actually cut a hole in one of the a/c hoses.

The belt is still on but its now only half as wide as it should be :wacko:

Should I cut it off so it doesn't do any more damage? Since its the middle of winter I don't care if I have to go without a/c for a little while.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. If you need any more info or pics let me know.

Thanks

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402170-ac-belt-issues-m35-stagea/
Share on other sites

Replace both the belts mate. Its only a small job, and I think you can get them commonly at autoshops- just ask for 350z drive belts.

Did mine- Think I payed $30 or something for the belts- no much.

I'd be more worried about the AC pipe- do you still have AC or has all the gas gone?

So you mean replace the cam belt or is there another smaller one that I'm not seeing?.

Do you have to take the pulleys off or do you just slip the new belts on?

A/C has gone, Alot of fluid got squirted up onto the bottom of the air filter box, the hole is on top of the rubber hose that is directly below the air box.

there no cam belt, its the accessory belts youre talking about.

there are adjustments on the tension pully for each belt. you undo the locking bolt, then unscrew the pully to put plenty of slack on the belt to remove it. then do the reverse to put it back on. dont do them up too tight or too loose. do both belts.

the AC pipe will need to be repaired and regassed. go to an automotive AC specialist for that.

no camshaft belts on our M35's. engine belt and AC belt only. If you are in Sydney, I can recommend a mobile AC guy, I was very happy with the job he did on my car, beit he was little expensive. I had the hose that connected to the compressor to the chassis mounted AC plumbing replaced, as well as both belts and a re-gas/ condensor clean.

the two drive belts on the front of the engine. drives the alternator, power steering, AC. You won't have to take the Pulleys off, just loosen the nut in the centre of the idler pulleys, and then use the tensioners (the really long bolts) to back off the tension, remove belt, slip new belts on in right order, and in the right route, tension, and tighten up the idler pulleys again.

Then take it to an AC place, and get them to make up a new line, and fill the AC system again. And let it be a lesson to you to check your belts for signs of cracking!

Car doesn't have a timing belt, it has a chain. If in doubt take it to a mechanic who knows what they are doing.

Thanks for your help....... I should know its chain driven, bit of a noob moment.

Its a new import and I haven't serviced it yet, its getting a service in the next few days.

I think I will have a crack at replacing the belts myself. How do I make sure I get the right tension? I can understand what would happen if they were too tight or too loose.

Thanks again.

I'm sure that there is a real complicated way of doing it in the FSM, but rule of thumb that I go off, is that you find the longest length of belt, and if you can depress it by hand about 1cm or so, then it'll be ok. If its loose you'll hear it "screech" on start up or quick rev, its its too tight, it'll flog out the bearings in the ancillaries.

Other people have different ways?

  • 4 years later...

I just replaced my Ac belt on my nm35 now it wont pick up untill around 3000rpm it's alright if Ur going but when u stop at lights or stop sign  Then it takes off ....any ideas what i have done wrong.....im not a car guy i just like driving them not working on them :)))

Edited by Smokie86

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...