Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I am selling my factory manual turbo R34 GTT Sedan as I have a company car and hardly ever drive it.

It's a hard decision for me as I have owned the car for two years and done most of the modifications myself using genuine parts.

This is a perfect blank canvas for anyone into JDM, Drift or VIP style cars.

I have recently just renewed the rego and the car has been given a detail and paint freshen up.

The car comes with the following:

Heavy Duty clutch

Factory Bilstein suspension (1inch lower than standard) great comfortable ride

GCG Hi-flow turbo

CD Player/Ipod connectivity

Carrozeria Speakers

Factory Option Nismo Knee rest

Rare Nismo "S Tune" Bodykit

Nismo Clear Indicators

Custom Turbo back 3.5 inch Exhaust with Jap Twin muffler

Air con works perfectly

Serviced every 5000kms

Tinted Windows

88000kms..

I am open to discuss swap/trade for a turbo Nissan S13,S14,Silvia,180sx,cefiro or similar that can be used as track car with trailer plus cash on top.

Please feel free to contact me during business hours on 0410 583 744 or pm me here.

photo-51-2.jpg

photo-58-1.jpg

Cheers

Phillb

  • 2 months later...

Recent pic's from World Time Attack:

383845_409102875812428_1307725497_n.jpg

395935_384828814917704_1958199766_n.jpg

NB: Fortune Auto Coilovers installed. Bronze Do-Luck wheels NOT included in sale.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Bump, Still open to Serious offers.

Here is a quick update on mods..

Powered by Max Castor & Rear Camber Arms

Extended tie rods and ends for extra lock

New Gearbox mount.

Options available are:

$15993ono - Bilstein & Stock wheels

$18990ono - Coilovers & Stock wheels (all stock parts including Bilstein) All of the above including aftermarket wheels.

SWAP FOR CASH ONLY NO SWAPS/TRADES

Bronze Do-Luck Wheels in first pics are NOT INCLUDED IN SALE.

Stock wheels or other aftermarket parts may be negotiated.

Optional: 18inch Racing Hart CR 18 x 9j +16 or 18 inch Ark Design 18 x 9.5 +22.

Optional: The car was also recently used as a Haltech test car, which means the new owner has the option of a new Haltech Pro ($2000)

Please feel free to contact me on during business hours.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...