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Martin, response is my next goal.... Bigger exhaust etc.... IF my engine retires I'll be keeping the NEO setup..... May stroke it tho..... Chick dig stroking..... Wait..... :P

And Chookie, Cusco is winning.... But shimming will do ya for now

May stroke it tho..... Chick dig stroking..... Wait..... :P

And Chookie, Cusco is winning.... But shimming will do ya for now

off hell yeah they do :cheers: spesh after few of them <<<

ill have a cusco 34 soon enough, well maybe, they are pricey friggen parts

Where is difftrans? Is he good??

Martin my car is fine. My LSD has never worked and only just relised GTTs have LSDs at Texi wen mat picked up that I was single pegging. So I'd like to get it sorted so I can launch.

the factory lsd's are good for a bit then wear out, best bet is to shim it up if your after a cheaper fix.. then you can have it as tight or loose as you want sorta thing, hopefully ill get the twins to make mine twin :)

Where is difftrans? Is he good??

Martin my car is fine. My LSD has never worked and only just relised GTTs have LSDs at Texi wen mat picked up that I was single pegging. So I'd like to get it sorted so I can launch.

He is in that steel river industrial part, of you turn into that industrial area and turn right at the roundabout you'll see the sign on the roof in from of you....

Ask for Aaron, he is awesome at what he does!! Last time I was there he had Tinklers GT3 gearbox there so considering that gearbox is worth more than my car I trust him :P he has built my diff and a heap of mates and we are all very happy! Price was good too

Where is difftrans? Is he good??

Martin my car is fine. My LSD has never worked and only just relised GTTs have LSDs at Texi wen mat picked up that I was single pegging. So I'd like to get it sorted so I can launch.

Ah okay

Let me know how you get on.

I keep lifting a rear wheel getting in and out the driveway so not sure how long the diff will like it for

Ah okay

Let me know how you get on.

I keep lifting a rear wheel getting in and out the driveway so not sure how long the diff will like it for

That's nothing to do with the diff tho, it's just a skyline/coilover thing.... It puts no real load on the diff that's gunna do damage, unless you drop the clutch lol....

And the diffs are really strong.... It's the LSD that seems to loosen up a bit (like Chookie) hahaha

My build is ages away from even starting. The parts I ordered from Japan have been at Sea for 4 weeks...and the standard time is around 6-9 weeks for delivery.

Also, arranged a CES Front/dump pipe pipe and hi-flow cat....but still have to organise a catback exhaust.

Should get a 38RWKW gain from upgrading the exhaust system.

I can get a 3 inch Reinhard Canonball Catback Exhaust for $350 (its been used)....but it doesnt have a resonator. I heard the reinhards without a resonator register something like 113DB at 5900rpm for Sr20's =|

talking bout build threads, i just bought some 225/40/18's to slap on my 18x9.5'' rims, my candy red Hicas lock bar is in transit, along with paying postage on my new cusco coilovers, and waiting on ryan to drop my 3"front pipe and highflow cat over.. might splurge on some camber arms tonight and hope i get enough to finish my tattoo next pay :D

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  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
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    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
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