Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

plus slab.

pretty f**ked ay, its a bit of f**kin concrete and a few bolts, id do it if the slab wasnt the issue hah

Slab for a shed wouldn't be too difficult.

Excavate down about 200mm to remove the topsoil ....can do this with shovel

Then you'd need sand (for sandbed), plastic membrane, something like SL82 reinforcement mesh, formwork for the edges (you'd use 19 coated formply, 100x50 timber, and hardwood stakes), and then pour the 32MPa reinforced concrete. Then let the slab cure. Slab would only need to be about 150mm thick

yeah dude that's the plan benji

carsales 2000 model in Nsw and tell me mine doesn't look the best and in best nick. leave stupid comments to yourself Luke

a gtt for 13k would be absolute balls ask everyone in this thread they've paid lots for there's

yeah dude that's the plan benji

carsales 2000 model in Nsw and tell me mine doesn't look the best and in best nick. leave stupid comments to yourself Luke

a gtt for 13k would be absolute balls ask everyone in this thread they've paid lots for there's

It's very well priced for the excellent condition it's in - i wouldn't drop below this price much.

If i hear of anyone looking over here for a gtt - i'll point them your way.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...