Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Squizz. Cool, I'll organise a drive in the next few weeks. I'm going to Melbourne this weekend for the "Show Off" series. I'm having car show withdrawalls since the last decent show I was at was the Auto Salon final battle.

Muz. What is the difference between the HKS cooler and the Trust cooler ?

rb26DETT. Is the temperature going outside specificatiion or is it just getting hot ? What deg would you say its getting to ?

I have been having a good look at different kits and was just about to ask anyone if they had used the HKS oil cooler kit. The particular HKS kit for the 33 GTR is very large, much larger than the trust kit (although trust has a few different setups), its a 16 row cooler approx dimension off the top of my head were 220ishx200ishx40ish. But by the sound of it, it sat inside the wheel arch, not sure how I feel on that. The wheel arch option might be alright with a 400R front bar but I am not sure there would be enough air flow through that area with a standard GTR bar. mmmmmm.

There was no specification. Whatever people say like it will reduce blah blah blah by how many degrees does not matter. The RB26 makes a lot of heat, don't know why either...maybe it's cos of the second turbo??

Anyway I found that with the cooler, it just reduced cruising temperatures and gave me probably another 5 to 10 mins hard driving in the mountain. Temp. gauge on the GTR console was reading halfway (I always back off when it gets there), so I'm assuming around 95 to 100 degrees?

Best would be to fit it and then go for a strap...makes a difference, but not much.

If you could, just go for the biggest possible oil cooler, more volume of oil plus larger surface area to cool the oil. IMO, i think the ARC's oil cooler would have to be one of the best, too dam expensive though.

GTRman, I can't answer what the difference is as I didn't look at the Trust item. I have a Nismo front bar and have mounted the cooler in front of the right front wheel behind the duct opening in the bar. rb26DETT is probably correct in saying that you need the biggest cooler you can get(within reason) and have plenty of air ducted to it. Remember the GTT is only a single turbo so the under bonnet temps will definitely be lower but the oil cooler will definitely reduce your engine oil temps

Cheers

Muz

Squizz. Cool, I'll organise a drive in the next few weeks. I'm going to Melbourne this weekend for the "Show Off" series. I'm having car show withdrawalls since the last decent show I was at was the Auto Salon final battle.

Muz. What is the difference between the HKS cooler and the Trust cooler ?

rb26DETT. Is the temperature going outside specificatiion or is it just getting hot ? What deg would you say its getting to ?

You really need to fit the oil cooler in clear air to get the full effect. Fitting it behind another cooler will only ensure that it gets hot air from in front and radiated heat from the radiator behind.

Cheers

Muz

Ok. Well I'll fit the cooler (between the intercooler and radiator) and see how it goes.

BTW I have the owners manual and it says the safe region for the oil is to the line above the centre line.

Yep and so is the HKS kit.

Simple logic tells me that if the vehicle is moving, then the swept hot air from the intercooler is being directed onto the fins of the oil cooler which not only is having to deal with the oil being hot, is now having to deal with a higher ambient temperature passing over its' fins which in turn then passes the hotter air onto the radiator which by now is really struggling. Probably got an A/C condenser in there somewhere as well. Probably compounding the temp rise all the time.

Just my thoughts is all.

Cheers

Muz

the trust kit is made to be mounted there

For the life of me I can't understand why you guy's want to run Jap oil coolers. Gibson never did,,he ran Sereks or the like with direct ducting. The jap one are way to thin and the oil passes through them way to fast.

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...