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hi...tonite on the way home from work, my 33 lost its 'G-FORCE' factor. I went to accelerate hard, and nothing...just normal 6 cylinder performance. Everything looked and sounded normal, just no-GO! Boost was being made (according to the guage) but seems like it was no longer going to the right spot!!(?) My little brother suggested tonite, that the WasteGate or its actuator(?) may be keeping the gate open and losing all the energy the turbo is trying to make (?)...sounds reasonable. I disconnected (as a test), the solenoid (2 small pipes and a 2 wire socket attached) that seems to connect to the WG and black induction pipe and it made no difference (I was hoping it would get worse, but it didn't!!)

If anyone has had any exp like this, pls help me?

It's only been a few hours, but gees!!..I miss that push feeling in my chest!!!

Thanx.

ps car use to get to 7000rpm in first quickly, now only aprx 4500-5000 and then useless

TRUFIT EXHAUST MAN FOUND HOSE CLAMP TO PLENUM CHAMBER HAD COME LOOSE!!!(large APRX 3 INCH RUBBER PIPE JOINING PLENUM AND INTAKE PIPE) CLAMP LOOKED OK, BUT TOUCHED IT WITH FINGER AND IT SPAN LIKE A TOP.

NOW GOING SIDEWAYS AGAIN...He didn't even charge me!! happy happy joy joy!

THE LAST 2 DAYS HAS AGED ME 10 YEARS IN WORRYING..OVER SUCH A STUPID LITTLE FAULT...GOES TO SHOW.....DOESN'T EVERYONE?

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thats a tuffy dude... not the wastegate is my guess... if its open (enough) you wont build boost AFAIK.

is it building as much as it used to, do your revs climb faster then usual with no real speed increase?

if so could be the clutch

Intercooler pipe you say?

If a cooler pipe has come loose you would have a leak which would cause the car to splutter and run like a dog (As experienced by XEQTER recently)

Is the car running an aftermarket boost controller?

i have a similar problem, although i only lost top end power/push in the back after 5000 revs....

it happened after i reset the computer,3 months ago, and hasnt recovered since....it is pissing me off so bad i am thinking of investing in an aftermarket comp...

dunno if this helps but perhaps its a comp problem??

thats a tuffy dude... not the wastegate is my guess... if its open (enough) you wont build boost AFAIK.

is it building as much as it used to, do your revs climb faster then usual with no real speed increase?

if so could be the clutch

No, not the clutch. Boost raises way too fast now( middle of 0 and +7 guaged), just no more pick up once you get into 2nd gear onwards. (Seems to be taking off with 'boost', after that really flat) But guage no longer gradual, almost instant +3 to +4 boost indicated.

Intercooler pipe you say?

If a cooler pipe has come loose you would have a leak which would cause the car to splutter and run like a dog (As experienced by XEQTER recently)

Is the car running an aftermarket boost controller?

Car idles and travels (at standard speed) beautifully. No sputter. When someone mentions cooler pipe, are they saying that it could be leaking, or overheating?

No aftermarket boost fitted, I was about to fit the GFB 1003 Hybrid BOV to it the nite that this happened, but now, nup. I'll wait till this gets sorted.

Thanks mate.

yes cooler pipe coz car wont make boost if the wastegate is stuck open
Thanks................

Does anyone know if I was right in saying that there is a factory boost contoller, (the solenoid looking thing with 2 small pipes and 2 wires going into it) It is located (from front) at the right near the air intake. Could this be stuffed and no longer controlling the WGate? Is this computer part controlled ,but jammed?

It made no diff when I disconnected this thing. Does the guage run pre or post waste gate???? I just don't know yet.

yes an no... what u found there is the solenoid... not a controller as such cos its not "smart".

From what i can tell (by playing with my car) the boost is controlled as follows.

the solenoid feeds air into the wastgate actuator from the intake piping (before the throttle body as this is a boost only point). now i dont know too much about wastegate actuators myself, but i assume that this air feed is to build pressure above the actuator diaphram and hold the gate closed (ie if u have say a 4psi spring rate and feed and additional 3psi of pressure into the diaphram u get an opening pressure of 7psi, please correct me if i've gone wrong).

ok now lets think about this prob logically....

1. we're getting good boost... so that means no leaks in anything up to the throttle body and the waste gate is closed.

2. revs are proportional to power - rules out the clutch

so that leaves the ecu, block and the power train (minus clutch)

That sounds right ppl?

oh and please please please... if i have gone wring somewhere tell me where and how... i'm a conceptual kinda person so i kinda make a mental image of a running engine and follow the air flow, so one wrong assumption would send my otherwise accurate mental map into a mess.

Check the pugs on the knock sensors or the knock sensors themselves going into diagnostic mode on the ecu.

if the timing is being retarded then the car will be behaving as you have stated. Knock sensor is a good chance of being the problem

Check the pugs on the knock sensors or the knock sensors themselves going into diagnostic mode on the ecu.

if the timing is being retarded  then the car will be behaving as you have stated. Knock sensor is a good chance of being the problem

Thanx...can this sort of thing happen "just like that"...I mean, drie to work,finish work go home to find timing is reterded... woah! I will get my ECU checked. Is there any way I can tell if it has gone into diagnostic mode?

Check the pugs on the knock sensors or the knock sensors themselves going into diagnostic mode on the ecu.

if the timing is being retarded  then the car will be behaving as you have stated. Knock sensor is a good chance of being the problem

Thanx...can this sort of thing happen "just like that"...I mean, drive to work,finish work go home to find timing is retarded... woah! I will get my ECU checked. Is there any way I can tell if it has gone into diagnostic mode?

yes an no... what u found there is the solenoid... not a controller as such cos its not "smart".

From what i can tell (by playing with my car) the boost is controlled as follows.

the solenoid feeds air into the wastgate ..............

Thankyou so much MES.

I also found the i can no longer 'Redline' my car...it used to get up to 7000 in no time, now it seems to peek at 4500 aprx!!!

could this be computer related. Also fitted an GFB boost control tonite, (bypassed the factory control/solenoid), boost is back, still only getting 4500 rpm (in first) and much slower boost up in second gear onwards. it's got me ****ed!!

superspit

your problem seems very similar to mine....

after i reset my comp, my rev limiter which would kick in after 6500 does not kick in anymore....7000+ and still revs...but as you are experiencing i too have lost the power..

i reckon it is comp related problem or a sensor that has died...

at 4500rpm the ecu will ground wire 25 (i think) for the boost solenoid so it opens to run 7psi and also ive read that ecu turns of vvt timing at this rpm too to increase torque or something related to that. ill try and find it again

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