Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just got offered a job in Hobart and I'm moving down there from NSW in early July. This is the first time I have moved interstate and I'm pretty damn excited about the whole thing. I want to bring my car down at some stage but I don't know anything about doing this. Will I have to change the rego to tasmanian registration? I know I have to change my lisence over after 3 months.

Trying to work out if it would be easier just to sell there car here with NSW rego and buy something else down there.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402542-moving-to-hobart/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I just got offered a job in Hobart and I'm moving down there from NSW in early July. This is the first time I have moved interstate and I'm pretty damn excited about the whole thing. I want to bring my car down at some stage but I don't know anything about doing this. Will I have to change the rego to tasmanian registration? I know I have to change my lisence over after 3 months.

Trying to work out if it would be easier just to sell there car here with NSW rego and buy something else down there.

Thanks

I bought my car from Melb and took it back here(Launnie) and had to get a roadworthy done then take that to service tas to get it regoed

pretty simple, i think if your car is ok up there it shouldnt be too bad here, although my car was pretty much stock.

i think you can also get your remaining rego back from NSW when you hand over plates and show proof of new rego,(receipt), thats what i did with the remaining 10 months on the melb rego

Edited by MatthewT85

And I'll come to it........... if my car is going by then :( Bring it over man the more the merrier............. is that how you spell merrier or is it merryier.......... god knows anyway it's easy to get it roadworthied and swapped over. Most of the imports down here are from the mainland anyway ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Cheers for the info guys, pretty keen for a track day when I get settled in. Went down to Hobart 2 weeks ago and found a place to rent, really nice city and the food was great.

We drove to the top of mount wellington, holy shit it was freezing up there. Probably going to wait till summer to go back there again.

Going to take my car down this week and go over on the boat and bring all my crap with me and then I'm starting work on monday. Hopefully i'll see you guys at some trackdays in the future.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...