Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PM's sent

Floor carpet (the big one) $80 pics to come

Lightly damaged passenger GTR front guard $80

Also some pics of qtrs and a quick coulple of roof so you can see where i cut it. more on request.

post-61876-0-94866100-1344345134_thumb.jpg

post-61876-0-52805800-1344345136_thumb.jpg

post-61876-0-74181300-1344345138_thumb.jpg

post-61876-0-83908000-1344345139_thumb.jpg

post-61876-0-29740900-1344345141_thumb.jpg

post-61876-0-83836200-1344345142_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just received my parts from spirom and couldn't be happier. Very easy to communicate with and fast postage. Cheers man :D

A update on whats left

Fuel setup from page 1 $700

Doors $150

Stock R32 GTR twin turbos - no dump pipes - Price Drop - $80

Center Din Gauges $40

Boost Sender $25

Under dash trim with fuse cover - has a little glue residue on left side $20

Front sway bars with links, brackets - $30

Side mirrors - $45

Side Kick pannels - $15

Boot lock liner top bit hard plastic linner. - Price Drop - $10

Attesa 4wd reservoir - Price Drop - $25

Peddles - Price Drop - $10 each or all for $25

Power Stering canister - $10 - sensor lead cut/missing

ABS pump - Price Drop - $50

Drivers side 1/4 glass with rubber - Price Drop - $50

Passenger side 1/4 glass NO rubber - Price Drop - $30

Dash - Price Drop - $50

A Pillar garnish both sides - Price Drop - $45 - Drivers side has 3 holes from single guage pod. will suplly pod also.

Steering column plastic - Price Drop - $35

Boot rubber seal Perfect condition - Price Drop - $25

Door/window seals - $ 20 Each please look at pics

Blower/AC boxes - $20 each

Tail Lights - no covers - $60 each

Diff cradle complete $800

Accelerator cable - Price Drop - $20

Front Windscreen Moulds - both - Price Drop - $20

Petrol Flap and cap Price Drop - $15

Boot/Fuel leaver with plastic - Price Drop - $5

Rear windscreen wiper motor - $25

Internal roof lights Price Drop - $5 each

Foot rest - Price Drop - $5

Gear stick rubber boots and ring - Price Drop - $20

Aircon controller Price Drop - $40

Boot hinge spring system Price Drop - $20

Recirculation pipe Price Drop - $5

Std blow off valves $40

Intercooler pipe left and right ends Price Drop - $20 for both

Glove box $20

Intercooler Brackets top and bottom - note top ones not in pic - not sure what the other ones are Price Drop - $20

HIcas ECu $60

Stock amp $20

Rear windscreen demister controller box $15

Floor carpet (the big one) Price Drop - $50 pics to come

Lightly damaged passenger GTR front guard $80

Thanks

Spiro

0414 509 399

Steve,

Yours has been shipped as I said when I messaged you on sat morning. I did remove it from the list but i have found another one yesturday, it must have from my new shell.

To clarify you the boost sender unit that is under the Center Din Gauges for $40 is the sender unit for the guages.

and i have a secondBoost Solenoid Boost Valve Sensor Price Drop $30

Please let me know if i can further help.

Spiro

0414 509 399

Got Turbos and stuff today, top seller and sir i applaud you on your tetras skills, opened crate/box to check on turbos and there is no way i could get the stuff back in haha thanks again :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...