Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanx guys. The guy doing the camber kit tomorrow had suggested it as he was told that it would help. I was thinking about it this morning and being mechanically minded, I was trying to figure out how it would help me in normal driving, so I phoned Paul from Autoworx and he basically said that if I'm doing lots of hard work with it, i.e. hard cornering and the like, then it would be usefull. But for every day use and occasional hard cornering, then forget it. So have decided to leave that item out.

Can put that money toward my 3" system.

Anyway thanx all the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40272-front-strut-brace/#findComment-827677
Share on other sites

ric777,

I disagree, It makes a tremendous difference to the way the car feels on the road! I can feel the extra rigidness just coming up my driveway! Cornering has vastly improved, and the car stays flat a lot better now! (of course, Nismo suspension helps!)

Roundabouts are no probs at 50+ kms now, overall, it's worth every cent IMO...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40272-front-strut-brace/#findComment-829950
Share on other sites

ric777,

I disagree, It makes a tremendous difference to the way the car feels on the road! I can feel the extra rigidness just coming up my driveway! Cornering has vastly improved, and the car stays flat a lot better now! (of course, Nismo suspension helps!)

Roundabouts are no probs at 50+ kms now, overall, it's worth every cent IMO...

I understand what you are saying and I agree. The rigidness it creates is a fact. I understand that the Skyline is quite flexible in the front end when cornering hard. I don't drive it that hard too often, so that is not a factor for me. Originally I was told it would help sort my negative camber along with the camber kit. Often, they reckon the camber kits won't bring the camber back totally to spec. In the case of a fixed brace, I couldn't see how it would help negative camber. In the case of an adjustable brace, then the struts could be pushed out slightly to reduce negative camber. The downside of that might be that perhaps there might be a larger than acceptable gap between the hood and the fenders, but I wouldn't think that should be a problem.

50+ at roundabouts?? is that all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40272-front-strut-brace/#findComment-830698
Share on other sites

agreed my 2 cents is buy the one for $100 thats a great price for the pay back they present

 

forget all the camber stuff and look at it as an investement in the driving pleasure you experience from your car.

Hi Riaz, the camber stuff is something "not" to forget about as it cost me $320 for a pair of new tyres. Not something to worry about if the old tyres were worn out, but they had 90% tread and as I said in another thread, it was basically my fault for not keeping an eye on them although the guy who does my services should have his ass kicked for not picking it up also. My second post on this thread explains what I was told regarding the brace in regards to camber.

Anyway, I did some searching on the net and they all say that in race conditions the brace is essential, there was no mention of benefit to camber.

Yourself and Strich9ine seem to be wrapped in them but it would seem the 2 that have theirs for sale obviously don't see any benefit in normal conditions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40272-front-strut-brace/#findComment-832735
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...