Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thought id do a big bump on this one.. I am still getting the blip of power to the front wheels (shows up on the front torque gauge) now and then usually when the gearbox shifts from first to second gear.. no 4WD light ever. (thanks scotty - that was just a faulty relay). Though this blip of power to the front wheels even when using very low throttle causes the car to do a very ugly shift into second. or very occasionally a slight surge at 60-70kmh.

If i pull the relay and have the 4WD light come on (hence RWD only) car is smooth as silk.

also smooth as silk if i flick to synchro.

Anyone else have this problem? Going to bleed the atessa with scotty in the next couple of weeks though would like to see if anyone else has any ideas.

just been doing some googling. Some people are saying that it can be caused by non-matching front and rear tires.. I run factory ARX 18's they did come with 235/50/18 though i changed them to 245/45/18. surely it cant be that??

Cheers.

Edited by Sage222

If all the tyres are matching there isn't much else you can do, unless the fronts are worn more than the rears?

Hopefully it just needs a flush, new fluid can only help it, and get rid of any built up air in the system.

Today I had my first encounter with exactly the same thing between 5-10% torque showing on the gauge in 1st gear and into the beginning of 2nd... No green 4WD light up on dash either.

Made the car sound like it was working extremely hard but performance was anything but. Didn't at all turn the tyres was probably best described as like a slipping manual clutch sensation...

Ok it had been very lightly drizzling in Adelaide, still I had pictured qtr turn of opposite lock to be the result...?

Only owned NM35 for a couple months...

So is this the normal occurrence

  • 3 weeks later...

just an update for those following and or having the same problem. My car was due for a front right wheel bearing.. This seems to have been causing issues with the atessa. making the car pulse power to the front wheels when cruising (50-80kmh). Also even gave me a symptom like fuel cut when using near or wide open throttle. both these things have been fixed by the wheel bearing replacement.. (thanks Scotty!).

quite strange. we bled the atessa fluid too. so now i am back tot he occasional blip of front torque when going from first to second.. no other symptoms..

  • 3 weeks later...

yeah mate. running real well i reckon that atessa bleed has helped too.. just need to do that dif bush let me know when you get em in :)

I sent diff bushes down to Scotty last week, if Auspost get off their arses they should have them to him shortly.

you may be interested - in cold Russia the most suspicious part of ATTESSA is used to be the pressure control switch, which causes C1208 error reading

this is one of this crap pieces

2db33fe37fb1.jpg

867af81abd03.jpg

6c2d669ed42b.jpg

it's not aviable to order from Nissan separately

we have found the replacement one -

http://wako-clinac.co.jp/product_en/ps-20_en/index.html

the thread is metric M10*1.25

length of thread 10mm (2.5mm O-ring)

  • Like 2

Nice one Erop, I have an assembly here with pressure switch problems, I might give this switch a shot. Thanks.

You don't happen to have a part number for the correct pressure and thread do you?

this switch is only marked with PS-20

the WAKO doesn't sell less than 1000 pcs :angry::angry:

now looking for byuing this switch, still no exact code, Scott's right

BUT - you may take it from R32-R34, Laurels, Glorias - their ATTESSA is similar in such parts, and their used spares are cheaper

in my mind - the reason is lack of changing of this fluid, which causes mechanical problems in winter, cause my one (350K on odo since 2001) still works, i replace the ET-S fluid every year

Edited by Erop
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...