Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2003 NISSAN SKYLINE 350GT / V35 PREMIUM COUPE

NISMO EDITION WITH RARE SUNROOF OPTION

BOSE 8 SPEAKER SOUND

6 CD CHANGER

FACTORY MD CHANGER IN BOOT

LEATHER SEATS

DUAL ZONE CLIMATE CONTROL

FACTORY SECURITY

AFTERMARKET DVD PLAYER/ SCREEN

FACTORY SUNROOF

FACTORY NISMO EDITION PARTS

NISMO BODYKIT (includes Front Bar, Side Skirts, Rear Pods, Rear Diffuser)

NISMO S-TUNE SUSPENSION

NISMO EXHAUST

FULLY INFINITI BADGED INCLUDING

FRONT AND READ EMBLEMS

ENGINE COVER

STEERING WHEEL

WHEEL HUB CAPS

WHEEL VALVE STEM COVERS

DOOR SILLS

EXCELLENT CONDITION INSIDE AND OUT

46XXX KMS

LOCATION: BRISBANE

REGISTERED UNTIL DEC 2012

PRICE: $22,500

Just put on 4 Brand New Tyres last week.

CALL 0403 ONE ONE SIX 273 OR PM

GENUINE ENQUIRIES ONLY PLEASE

post-78687-0-70837600-1340336131_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-84499700-1340336170_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-06641900-1340336194_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-42550500-1340336273_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-54659000-1340336301_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-18641800-1340336334_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-00748300-1340336375_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-11604000-1340336873_thumb.jpg

Nice car, might want to change the text in the 1st post though, can't read it when using the dark SAU theme!

thanks iamhe77

how can i edit this ad ? are the mods able to help me wit the prob ?

Edited by deep rulz
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

CAR NOW HAS 19" HYPERION CVM JAP LIGHTWEIGHT WHEELS 8.5front & 9.5rear IN SATIN BLACK COLOUR (jap website says weighs between 10.4 - 10.8kgs) AND A CUSTOM BOOTLIP and a Brand New Y-pipe to give the NISMO exhaust a little bit more grunt!!!!

here is a link to the translated jap website on info on wheels

http://translate.goo...1lMV3WlOXsCDayw

Price is back to $22500 firm rego until dec2012

post-78687-0-85541800-1344731035_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-64285500-1344731046_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-52971700-1344731059_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-78325800-1344731070_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-60524500-1344731079_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-74074600-1344731089_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-94330300-1344731100_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-18112700-1344731109_thumb.jpgpost-78687-0-77725900-1344731116_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...