Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am having an issue with my temp sensor, the power fc hand controller is just showing a line and not displaying a temp, obviously this is changing the map to a point that it wont start when its cold, problem is that the car is stuck at work, any one know of a way to by pass this reading to get the car started so i can get it home?

im probably wrong here, but isnt there a part where you adjust what the computer sees , like a reading for different temperatures, maybe someone can provide more, but looking on my power fc it looks like you could almost foul the power fc with the inputs for each temp.???

im probably wrong here, but isnt there a part where you adjust what the computer sees , like a reading for different temperatures, maybe someone can provide more, but looking on my power fc it looks like you could almost foul the power fc with the inputs for each temp.???

Yeah you can adjust inj vs wtr temp correction etc but I would just buy a new temp sensor.

The sensor I think fails low so will be seeing -30 degrees or something and dumping fuel into it to get it to start

Edit: sorry didnt see the bit about the car being stuck at work. You would need to bridge it with a resistor in between, not sure how many ohms it would have to be

Edited by 89CAL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...