Jump to content
SAU Community

Nm35 Turbo

Sidius

By Sidius,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

^ you're right; by the time you attempt that you might as well take the bolt out, insert the washer & do it up.

BTW, is my braided oil line going in?

I'm not sure; makes getting the turbo back in a lot less fiddly IMO.

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Going back through this thread makes me laugh.

Anyway to getting to the point of why i'm posting.

I received a M35 today at my house...I'm going to name drop(rosella) so that if you wish to PM him and ask him who he used you can.

To say that I have never been more disappointed at the workmanship on a car before is going to be a big call.....this shop went full Re t a r d!

Firstly I'd like to say that rosella has done nothing wrong but to trust the workshop and "qualified" mechanic's he gave his car to.

So To start off(and this only get worse)

1/ Missing bolt on the back of intake bracket

2/ Loose top suction pipe hose clamp

3/ Suction pipe top bolt finger tight

4/ Suction pipe bottom pipe over tensioned....new stud needed as it was all but snapped

5/ Heat shields overlapping heat shield bolts....I might also add that they were rounded as well.

6/ Cross threaded Actuator bolts into the turbo...re tap needed.

7/ O2 Sensor way over tightened(well at least something was tight)

8/ After loosening the 2 bottom dump pipe bolts the whole dump pipe was flapping in the wind. Further to this there was a nut and bolt at the top that should not have been used at temp....the reason that a bolt was used was because they had drilled the thread through on the turbo rather than retapping it.

9/ Water pipe from the top not bolted on

10/ Oil line bolt not bolted on

11/ Turbo to exhaust manifold studs bolted up with ceased bolts from the turbo to dump side.....all were loose/finger tight with the exception of 1 bolt.

12/ Old line Banjo bolt missing one washer.....so it was pissing out oil everywhere. They tried to fix this by dumping a shit load of gasket goo over it.....this was there full re t a r d moment.....and everyone knows you never go full re t a r d!!!

anyway rant finished.......now to get the turbo back in tomorrow if I can!

13/ Used the banjo bolt from the block on the for the turbo........yes the one with the .8mm hole....this might have also added to the massive oil leak on top of the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...