Jump to content
SAU Community

4Wd Light Now Permanently On


Sage222
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

So as some of you are aware i had the intermittent 4WD light on my m35 since i got it. Used to come on about once a month. Though the last 2 weeks its every day. Just wondering should i care?

I am not really fussed if the car runs in 4WD or RWD mode as long as its not causing damage.

Does anyone know the root cause or where to start troubleshooting this issue? If it's an easy fix ill do it.

The only thing i have done recently is change the gearbox oil though i doubt that's related.

Appreciate your help gents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gearbox oil as you said isn't related. You really need to see what codes it's throwing up.

Even if it runs just rwd it still ends up wearing the clutch pack in the transfer case over time and you'll end up with a chatter and or vibration from it. With the attesa ets we have they can't be left in rwd mode permanately without transfer case damage. I've only found all this out while researching my attesa problem as I was going to leave it permanately rwd.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

damn.. anything i can buy? will a nissan dealer be able to do it? or do you know the name of the units that work? thanks for the info mate!

On the C34 Stagea the attessa ecu shows error codes via a flashing light. The only problem is that the attessa ecu is in the boot behind the lining and can't be seen!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious with this too!

I have a C34 that was originally auto but the previous owner pretty badly converted it to manual and slowly but surely we're fixing the crappy job he did (had to change the gear box after it died 2 weeks after buying the car, turns out he barely had any screws or bolts holding the bugger in!!)

But my AWD light will come on when I'm just sitting at the traffic lights? any causes for that, is it doing damage to my car?

My partner is a diesel mechanic / auto elec so we will eventually get around to fixing it but for now I'm just wondering if its doing any damage to the car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Madcat it all depends on what fault code your getting but if it's switching the pump off then it will promote clutch pack wear in the transfer case as it won't have enough load on the clutches.

Like most things the quicker you get onto the problem the less wear/damage it will do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends if you like rwd...

I wouldn't want to leave it for more than a month or two, there was a fair bit of crap in the splined hole of mine when I decided to refit the shaft, took a while to clean out and regrease.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had a rare start without the 4WD light on the other night so took it for a thrash in the wet. Lots of 4wd kicking in. Been for 4 drives since and no more error!

I guess its true. use it or lose it :)

lol anyways hope it's gone will post again in a week or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hmm.. now that the light is back to intermittent.. (usually happens every 4th start or so) will i be able to see the error on a scan tool? or does the 4WD light have to be on for it to register on the tool?

its quite odd. i am finding the gearbox change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd to be pretty rough when the 4WD light is off (4WD is working). Though when the light is on (RWD only) the gearbox is smooth as silk.

Strange..

May consider changing it to RWD permanently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Mine has come on for the first time this morning...

Mind you, it was bloody cold and I thought maybe the fluid was low and given the temp, even lower than usual.

Still best to get it scanned this week??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Mine is still coming on.. every other day.. usually when its cold though not always.. Car still drives sweet either way though..

took it to Import Factory at Nunawading they told me there was an error though no error code.. (doesnt sound right does it?)

They said they cleared it and checked the points though next day it was back.. they also said it could be to do with the wheel size and rubber profile.. (really??)

I run ARX rims with 245 45 18.. seems close enough to factory to me.. though interestingly enough the light did come on around the time i changed the rubber on them from 235 50 18

not sure what to do now.. maybe just pull the drive shafts...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which injectors are you using? It's likely the fuelling is off also, so as above.
    • Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
    • I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.
    • Indeed  😃  Appears the site is back up now (migrated not updated) - kudos @funkymonkey & @PranK
    • If this, then this You can't really get away without it. There are hacks that you can do in Nistune, but things are much easier with the sensor than without it. If you're not planning to Nistune the ECU, then stop right now and add it to your plan anyway, because the ECU is going to shit the bed over the missing ABS and TC computers that it expects to see, and you need Nistune to stop it chucking all its toys over the side of the crib.
×
×
  • Create New...