Jump to content
SAU Community

Strong fuel smell inside the Car

r32impul

By r32impul,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Your fuel filler cap will have been sealed with non-fuel resistant sealer.

And it's just leaking out your fuel cap, down the side of the car.

Half of the cars in vic do it lol.

Just buy some resistant fuel putty stuff (comes in a tube) and use that.

You just gotta follow the instructions carefully or it wont work :D

r32impul Collaborator

r32impul

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well, I can see my fuel tank (white in color) from my boot under the carpet. the whole is about 8-10cm dia. the edge of the whole is quite sharp. Can you see your fuel tank from your boot which when you take out the carpet?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yeah, there is a cover meant to go over it.

Obviously it hasnt been put back.

This has nothing to do with the fuel smell i reckon though.

It'll be leaking out of where you put the Fuel Pump Nossle into.

You just need to re-seal it.

If the surge setup is leaking, you'd see stains.

NRB Rising Star

NRB

Posted
Posted

Gary, just for reference, here's a picture of my boot, and a picture of what it looks like with carpet pulled back. There is a cover on the top of the fuel tank with a rubber grommet on it. Two power lines run into the Bosch pump - one factory, one supplementary power source as the pump draws more current that the factory wiring can support.

NRB Rising Star

NRB

Posted
Posted

Why is your boot grey?

The inspection hole cover has been cut, but that doesn't necessarily mean that fuel vapour will enter the cabin as the fuel gauge unit and fuel pump harness assembly should keep the tank sealed.

Does the boot smell strongly of fuel? I didn't think there was a heap of airflow between the boot and the cabin as the only vents are between the parcel shelf and boot, aren't they? There's a nice solid metal wall on the front side of the boot.

Do the alignment marks line up for the fuel gauge assembly and fuel tank?

r32impul Collaborator

r32impul

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, the boot can small strongly of fuel, I can see a bit fuel inside the inspection hole, where it should be seal up. the rubber seal of that imspection hole cover is also broken (you can acturlly see it in between the 2 blue elec cable in my pic). So if you can see the fuel, can you smell it?

For the color of my boot, I don't know man. It comes like that.

r32impul Collaborator

r32impul

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Really, by the look of my pic, do you guys think is done up proper and professional? Is it suppose to see fuel in the boot? if cut the a big hole around the inspection cover, what is the use of the rubber seal around it?

NRB Rising Star

NRB

Posted
Posted

Gary, the fuel tank should be sealed 100% except for lines running to/from it, and the breather pipe. You shouldn't be able to visualise fuel at all.

I'd say this is part of your fuel consumption problem... a lot is probably sloshing around and splashing out; also a lot is lost due to evaporation given the volatility of petrol.

Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
Posted

"Just buy some resistant fuel putty stuff (comes in a tube) and use that."

What is this putty called and where can you get it from. Mine leaks fuel down the rear quater when i'm using the car in a sidewards motion..

r32impul Collaborator

r32impul

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, basically if you look at my pic again, from the whole where 4 fuel line go through, there is the fuel tank, if i close to it and smell it, for sure can smell fuel. As scotsman said: buy some "resistant fuel putty stuff (comes in a tube) and use that." how can I fill up a bit whole by that stuff? it will all go into the fuel tank man!!!

Basically, my fuel garge is not working too after they put the surge tank and intank fuel pump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...