Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

most of those tyres in that thread arent street legal....

your best bet is probably khumo ku36 or federal RSR

federals can be noisy but when venturing into semi slick territory that is what you get, when you are on the track tyres noise doesnt matter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404222-semi-slicks/#findComment-6441151
Share on other sites

KU36 aren't really a semi-slick. More of a semi-semi-slick. 180 treadwear. RSR's are 140 treadwear, yes? So much closer to real semi territory.

I get 10-11k km out of KU36 with mostly sensible driving. I'd hate to be paying for proper semis at that rate of consumption, let alone the fact that they'd only last half as long at best.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404222-semi-slicks/#findComment-6441473
Share on other sites

most of those tyres in that thread arent street legal....

your best bet is probably khumo ku36 or federal RSR

federals can be noisy but when venturing into semi slick territory that is what you get, when you are on the track tyres noise doesnt matter

lol? Sorry but you have no idea what you are talking about... All of the ones listed in the first post, bar 1 - are street legal.

Generally most R-Comps are street legal, except the hoosier/hankook/kumho single/dual groove items.

Also sorry to say... KU36s or RS-Rs are not a semi-slick/R-comp at all. They are simply a high performance road tyre, nothing more than that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404222-semi-slicks/#findComment-6441723
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...