Jump to content
SAU Community

Mongoose M80G Fitted With External Timer, Immoblilser Arm But Alarm Doesnt

Pattey21

By Pattey21,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pattey21 Proficient

Pattey21

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh its my turn to shite shir haha Been a while

Your ghey turbo timer is a adr defect ( but I'm sure you dont care!) but it must time how long you wank off ...so the 30 seconds is enough to cool off ? or set for 1 min so the oil has time to cool off and not stick to your palms

But its good to know your master mind fixed it " gold star to you "

In the future ask questions with some respect to the ones trying to help you ffs or expect a ban stick off SAU

A lot of people on SAU have skills well beyond what you could even imagine and help people in need if asked polite !! instead they could say FU pay someone to fix it !!

So chill out

Even if you dont agree show some respect for your fellow sau members

End rant , waits for bitchfest so the ban stick can come out

The question is a nissan is a soft target ( crime in japan isnt rampant like here) multi layered approach to security and even a 10 buck club will slow them down and stop joy riders

Gps tracker is a must on any decent cars and even that isnt a magic fix

Common sense is one major prevention of theft

Exactly i couldn agree more show respect were respect is due. post count doesnt represent ones knowledge, stupid questions get stupid answers and stupid answers get snide remarks and this is all defined by the individual users intepretation, so go figure. Welcome to the internet my friend :-)
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted

Thank you for listening , come again

Off topic

(Been on the net before it was called " the net " or before it was pc based ) and remember punch card mainframes at college lol

But the lack of respect and keyboard warriors flaming is from the past 10 years more so the last 5

Taking the piss is not the same as disrespect

Anyway its cool

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

*Thread hijack

So would this mean that my security is compromised since my turbo timer (which I actually use as a boost gauge) is still in the car, Chris?

Or was there something done to the wiring to make it that much harder to steal?

troy ,

lol :)

either of your will take a truck (or me) to move them.

  • 1 year later...
kiarnee-maree Newbie

kiarnee-maree

Posted
Posted

Now in all seriousness, I just brought a hks turbo timer with a plug and play harness. I though this would be very simple. I plugged it all in. And done the ground wire. All the modes and stuff come up and it seems fine. But when I turn the car off it does not count down and leave my car running for the time displayed. My car will run for 1 second after I turn it off. I have a mongoose alarm installed. It immobilised it self after 30 seconds of turning the car off. I'm still new to all of this. Can anyone tell me if I'm doing something wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...