Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I've got a r33 na with an x-force cannon (4 1/2 inch) and want to get it quieter with less vibration that hurts your head after a while. I've installed the silencer and that's done alot but want to hear any ideas of fiberglass, cotton etc inside the cannon to get some quietness. Thanks

A Varex muffler would help, they are one of the best sound deadening mufflers I have found so far, and then you can close the flap to silence them if you need to. My 3.5 inch one doesn't drone much at all.

A Varex muffler would help, they are one of the best sound deadening mufflers I have found so far, and then you can close the flap to silence them if you need to. My 3.5 inch one doesn't drone much at all.

How did you set up the boost actuated Varex???

Does anyone in here have a car that can't be defected? At the end of the day the goal is to not be pulled over, the impression of a stock car is the key imo.

Unfortunately there are no aftermarket mufflers I can recommend to reduce noise to a legal level other than the closed Varex. Other than that you would be best off finding a S/H jap cat back with a Jasma label.

I have gone back to the Varex motor on mine as the varex valve was too tight and kept jamming. There are other options I am trying at the moment.

post-63525-0-09171300-1342655810_thumb.jpg

Does anyone in here have a car that can't be defected? At the end of the day the goal is to not be pulled over, the impression of a stock car is the key imo.

Unfortunately there are no aftermarket mufflers I can recommend to reduce noise to a legal level other than the closed Varex. Other than that you would be best off finding a S/H jap cat back with a Jasma label.

I have gone back to the Varex motor on mine as the varex valve was too tight and kept jamming. There are other options I am trying at the moment.

Exactly, I think even my FMIC can defected can't it, just don't fail the dick head test if you do get pulled over.

The boost controlled varex looks interesting, shame it didn't quite work, and am interesting in hearing what you come up with.

Does anyone in here have a car that can't be defected? At the end of the day the goal is to not be pulled over, the impression of a stock car is the key imo.

Unfortunately there are no aftermarket mufflers I can recommend to reduce noise to a legal level other than the closed Varex. Other than that you would be best off finding a S/H jap cat back with a Jasma label.

I have gone back to the Varex motor on mine as the varex valve was too tight and kept jamming. There are other options I am trying at the moment.

there are plenty. any exhaust shop could sell you about 10 different ones that would, but few people would want them on their imports as a: they aren't fully hektic cannons, and b: they aren't a straight through type (so don't flow as well). but even a decent flowing muffler used with a decent centre muffler will give you exhaust levels below the legal limit. a non performance orientated muffler will be built in the same way as a stock one and give the same level of noise attenuation

but even a decent flowing muffler used with a decent centre muffler will give you exhaust levels below the legal limit. a non performance orientated muffler will be built in the same way as a stock one and give the same level of noise attenuation

With a 3.5 inch system? You have to be kidding... Most of my customers want 300kw at least these days, with two free flowing mufflers. There aren't many on the market that cater for low noise along with the flow, especially in stainless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...