Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry Domino, been a bit caught up with Targa Adelaide and all the associated work :)

This one is on the front-burner from here on in until completion. One of the 'tricks' we worked out is that to install the Greddy turbo kit you must have a Greddy top pipe kit as well! Thats done now.....

SD tuning only in something of this 'size'

  • 2 weeks later...

This package has probably the best flywheel setup their is....we totally re-engineered the whole thing so that never, ever in its life can this GTR ever make another flywheel rattle noise. From that point of view it behaves like a normal car.

The noise you hear is the engine/turbos as it doesnt have an exhaust on in the video, its straight out the dump pipes :)

This package has probably the best flywheel setup their is....we totally re-engineered the whole thing so that never, ever in its life can this GTR ever make another flywheel rattle noise. From that point of view it behaves like a normal car.

The noise you hear is the engine/turbos as it doesnt have an exhaust on in the video, its straight out the dump pipes :)

Just wouldn't be a GT-R without the rattles :P

this is interesting - how does the flywheel become 'loose' & why?

assuming the flywheel bolts run straight into the rear of the crank like a conventional engine - are the actual bolts under engineered or not correctly torqued from factory?

  • 2 weeks later...

i'd stop at full bolts on and mod'd stock turbos, and spend the rest on a set of A005's for the stock 20's for such events

pretty sure Martin and Seb have run A005s iirc - Martin could you get away with A005s on rear wheels only and stock bridgestones up front?

Edited by domino_z

i'd stop at full bolts on and mod'd stock turbos, and spend the rest on a set of A005's for the stock 20's for such events

pretty sure Martin and Seb have run A005s iirc - Martin could you get away with A005s on rear wheels only and stock bridgestones up front?

Arent they slicks? If they are they are not allowed. There must be a perfect combination of power vs traction for this type of event. Road surface will obviously be a variable factor. It would seem that Martins WR600 was better suited than Seb's setup.

Edited by g35me

Arent they slicks? If they are they are not allowed. There must be a perfect combination of power vs traction for this type of event. Road surface will obviously be a variable factor. It would seem that Martins WR600 was better suited than Seb's setup.

Temora was all about traction over time.

Sebs Alpha 12 was easily faster than the WR600 through the acceleration increments once it had achieved full traction, however finding that traction balance was difficult on the day. It didnt help that Sebs car was running Dunlop road tyres where the WR600 was using the SportMaxx version (as a test, which worked well)

Towards the end of the day when Seb really got into the car it was indeed faster in elapsed time than the WR600 head to head however the track had gone off to the point where no more fast times were run. On a dragstrip it would have been a very different story - as you might expect.

Temora is no real test of car performance rather the ability to adapt to the surface.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...