Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Earthing Pin 60 On Pfc

Taran

By Taran,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Taran Veteran

Taran

Posted
  • Author
Posted

mine done it once since the new fuses. how bad was your misfire tho mate ?? same as i described above or worse ??

About the same. A massive loss of power for a split second then bang, it all comes back.

Btw, one other thing i forgot to mention. I put the standard powerfc case back on. Previously i had the R32 GTR Stock ECU casing over the powerfc. What casing are you using?

Also, what does the new fuse look like?

Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

Feels like it looses all power for a split second and then back on again. Happens once, maybe twice for the week

If I remember correctly from on that thread, some guys with conversions were also getting it,and even some with R33 gtrs??

Seems like a bug with the unit itself

Taran Veteran

Taran

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Feels like it looses all power for a split second and then back on again. Happens once, maybe twice for the week

If I remember correctly from on that thread, some guys with conversions were also getting it,and even some with R33 gtrs??

Seems like a bug with the unit itself

Damn :(

Btw, what version of the Power FC do you have?

Taran Veteran

Taran

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So you replaced the fuse in the drivers foot well?

Yep, there was one fuse on the drivers side, under the steering wheel with the cluster of fuses there. That one seemed identical to the one i bought but the one under the bonnet where the 4wd fuse is was totally different. Much bigger and more heavy duty looking. I'll try take a pic this weekend.

GTR_NUTZ Collaborator

GTR_NUTZ

Posted
Posted

Alright awesome! Deffinatly gonna give the old fuses the switcheroo. Even if it's reduced this 'power-loss-hiccup' thing from every 10-15 mins of every drive to just twice a week I'll be plenty happy with that.

As for PFC I don't know what model it is. But I bought it about 5 years ago.

I still got the stock ecu and thinking about getting the nistune chip installed and getting another tune done and just swap the two everyone and a while.

It's only a PFC problem right? Nistune dont have this problem do they?

Oh and is this fuse swap in addition to the earthing trick you done as well?

Taran Veteran

Taran

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright awesome! Deffinatly gonna give the old fuses the switcheroo. Even if it's reduced this 'power-loss-hiccup' thing from every 10-15 mins of every drive to just twice a week I'll be plenty happy with that.

As for PFC I don't know what model it is. But I bought it about 5 years ago.

I still got the stock ecu and thinking about getting the nistune chip installed and getting another tune done and just swap the two everyone and a while.

It's only a PFC problem right? Nistune dont have this problem do they?

Oh and is this fuse swap in addition to the earthing trick you done as well?

Hey man. I got my FC around the same time. Yep, pretty sure it's Power FC only. The guy who tuned my car (Hitman) said it's a common issue with Power FC and 32.

At the moment here's what i have (with no misfire):

- Power FC with original Power FC casing (plugged into stock loom and just sitting on the ground on the passenger side)

- Upgraded fuse under bonnet (ECCS i think it is but will take a pic on the weekend and post it up)

- Earth kit under bonnet, connected to the heatsink thing ontop of the engine cover (earth kit is not connected to battery but is just connected to the body. Will take a pic of this on the weekend too)

GTR_NUTZ Collaborator

GTR_NUTZ

Posted
Posted

Pics would be good. Especially the fuse you have.

Pretty sure the purpose of a earth kit is so the power doesn't have to run around the chassis to go back to the battery. It's just a short cut straight to the negative terminal. And I've read reports of an extra 3-4 killer wasps and longer battery life. Plus they look cool. :-D

I just have the PFC and a 5 or 6 point earth kit straight to the battery.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Earth kits are a mixture of snake oil and cocaine. Makes you feel good without doing anything useful.

As long as you have at least one big fat earth from the engine to the chassis, with good, clean connection points at either end, and a good fat connection between battery -ve and the chassis, again with good, clean connections, then you will be hard pressed to measure any resistance at all between a point on the engine and the battery -ve terminal.

The chassis is a bigger, fatter conductor than any extra cable youcan install. Also, there are such things as earth loops that can occur if you have too many earths, and some of them are more earthy than others.

Taran Veteran

Taran

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pics would be good. Especially the fuse you have.

Pretty sure the purpose of a earth kit is so the power doesn't have to run around the chassis to go back to the battery. It's just a short cut straight to the negative terminal. And I've read reports of an extra 3-4 killer wasps and longer battery life. Plus they look cool. :-D

I just have the PFC and a 5 or 6 point earth kit straight to the battery.

Hey dude. I have a pic of the fuse. Did you want to pm me your email and i'll send them? I took high-res ones so you can compare them to the stock fuses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...