Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm a noob when it comes to car audio. So keep it simple please.

Pioneer 7950UB head unit + clarion 4 ch amp + 4 coax speakers (2 x front and 2 x rear).

I get alternator whine through my (mainly) rear speakers, audible when HU volume is low.

I can remove it entirely by turning down the gain on my amp to about 1/3 on F+R.

But setting the gain higher than that will bring it back on, and the higher the gain, the louder the whine.

That's all nice and good, but having my gain so low means HU volume needs to be up to almost max (45) for it to be decently loud.

Is this normal? Will increasing amp gain increase volume output through my speakers? ie require less volume at the head unit for same volume at speakers?

Or is this what I should expect of any amp?

And, is the whine a by-product of the higher gain settings, or am I just masking the actual problem? Possibly RCA noise, ground loops, etc?

I assumed you could turn the gain up till pretty much your speakers became unhappy. but since I know fk all about amps, I'm not sure it's the case.

For some background.

Amp is in the boot with the battery. Earthed directly to battery ground point (R33).

I have tried a couple of different earth cables. One thick muthrfker too.

I have removed the head unit more times than i care to remember. I have grounded the rca earths to the head unit chassis directly.

I have run the head unit ground wire to one of the bolts that holds the gear shift in place. I assume this is a decent earth?

I tried several other spots too with no change.

I also opened the head unit and soldered over the pico fuse which i'm sure was blown since i was getting excessive noise initially.

I swapped out the head unit for another one i had, and got the same whine.

My rca's and front speaker cables and remote wire run through the centre console, under the rear seat cushions, and into the boot.

thanks to anyone who can be bothered to read all that :)

Your positive its alternator whine? , not fan or other induced noise?

Alternator whine speeds up as you rev the car ?

Run a cheap pair of rca outside the car to the amp ? even 2 dollar cheapies for test

Amp should be grounded to car not battery

Radio grounded to shifter bolts not a good ground , paint and grime tar , grounding the rca normally makes it worse , you need to break the ground loop not enhance it with yet another path

clean terminals on battery ? batttery at full charge ? alternator ripple can be tested for a/c leakage if its on the way out ?

A cap can filter a/c ripple from charging

Can you run another source ? Ipod or ? Instead of deck ?

Gain on the amp shouldnt exceed 3/4 in most cases , you can set the gains with tester or meter

if you need more gain buy a overdrive from audiocontrol or similar 13v preout with clip meter ? Or new headunit with 4-6v preouts

Prob the best source ever for engine noise And chasing it down

Lots of goodies this guy is one of the original gurus of car audio

And if you read this he is the original co guru lol

http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=121

http://www.davidnavone.com/heresHow/august2003.htm

Thanks for the reply.

So basically, i should be able to turn the gain up if all was good, and the only thing i would experience is too much distortion/volume to the speakers, but not whine?

And ideally i should not have to turn the radio volume all the way to 45 to get some decent volume? although this is about the limit of what my speakers can handle by the sounds of it.

Yeah I found that guide already. very informative.

basically i've tried everything besides re-routing the rca's. but i will be doing that next, and also trying a different amp.

I should prob try the external source like an ipod too. that would rule out the amp and speaker wiring.

- yes it's alternator whine. It increases pitch with revs.

- amp is grounded to the car at the same point the battery is grounded to the car. Is this not good?

- battery terminals are clean. battery is charged and fine.

- I have tried 3 or 4 different radio ground points, including an open bolt hole with clean metal under my console, and the frame/chassis behind the dash.

- the rca's entering the radio are grounded to the radio's chassis directly (not to an external ground), to ensure they have a good ground internally. It was recommended in that guide i think.

It might be a bad rca easy fix?

You can get a groundloop isolator but thats a bandaid and if your alternator is stuffed it wont fix it, you can do a cap across the radio power to ground ( think jaycar sells a kit) or make your own

If your radio is culprit

Grounding the rca rarely fixes the problem unless the rca ground is bad inside the jacket it creates another ground plane/ path

is the amp close to battery power cable ? Maybe too close ?

Amp ground should be fine i thought it was direct to neg terminal not same bolt , you could move it it can pick up noise in some of the weirdest places

This is why installers hate used equipment on installs haha you can spend days chasing your tail

Even power antennas can cause it if the radio ground is better thru the antenna them ground wire

Floats ground thru antenna , or ground thru dash lights a common mistake

Edited by Carbon 34

Turns out it was the RCA's. I pulled my rear seat out and covered the rca's with conduit, and taped it all up, and used a more 'spacious' route to run them under the seat.

Noise is now gone at all gain levels, and i'm a happy camper! :)

Thanks for your help carbon.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Turns out it was the RCA's. I pulled my rear seat out and covered the rca's with conduit, and taped it all up, and used a more 'spacious' route to run them under the seat.

Noise is now gone at all gain levels, and i'm a happy camper! :)

Thanks for your help carbon.

Good to here it wasnt a huge drama and cost

Your very welcome

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...