Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Moving Around Rb25Det

joe blo

By joe blo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

joe blo Experienced

joe blo

Posted
Posted

hi guys been having a problem with my rb25 in my r32 for about a week. just started all of a sudded

it has a blow off valve that i think is plumbed back and not atmospheric venting. i dont believe it is the blow off valve stalling issue thats very common with atmo blow off valves. had that on my r33 and this isnt same.

what is does is sometimes it idles at normal speed around 1000rpm or so. sometimes it will rev up and down 200rpm from about 800-1000rpm. sometimes if i sit in neutral it will idle good then change into the fluctuating idle thing.

its really getting on my goat so need yas to tell me whats wrong.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405934-idle-moving-around-rb25det/
Share on other sites
Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Getting on your goat haha!

-clean your AFM (electric contact cleaner)

-clean your AAC valve (Carby cleaner)

Walk through for the AAC in the tutorial section.

AFM you should be able to do yourself

Then report back.

Also make sure that it's not ATMO it's as simple as popping the bonnet don't just guess it is

joe blo Experienced

joe blo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

il do those things.

the reason i think its a plumb back is that it doesnt have a trumpet and cant see a venting bit on it. and seems to have a pipe that looks like it goes back to somewhere. have studied it wen i got the car and came to the conclusion it must be a plumb back but will look again

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Yeah just follow it and be positive it heads back towards the intake.

Could be venting somewhere down the side to hide from police or something stupid like that.

I found it for you just incase.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

  • 3 weeks later...
joe blo Experienced

joe blo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i got out of it easy luckily. looked at motor for abit before i went any further. spotted a broken vacuum line from plenum to cant remember. replaced that and problem fixed.

thanks for the suggestions but. probably would have left it for ages if i had to do that aac thing. alot nicer now but

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...