Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys been having a problem with my rb25 in my r32 for about a week. just started all of a sudded

it has a blow off valve that i think is plumbed back and not atmospheric venting. i dont believe it is the blow off valve stalling issue thats very common with atmo blow off valves. had that on my r33 and this isnt same.

what is does is sometimes it idles at normal speed around 1000rpm or so. sometimes it will rev up and down 200rpm from about 800-1000rpm. sometimes if i sit in neutral it will idle good then change into the fluctuating idle thing.

its really getting on my goat so need yas to tell me whats wrong.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405934-idle-moving-around-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Getting on your goat haha!

-clean your AFM (electric contact cleaner)

-clean your AAC valve (Carby cleaner)

Walk through for the AAC in the tutorial section.

AFM you should be able to do yourself

Then report back.

Also make sure that it's not ATMO it's as simple as popping the bonnet don't just guess it is

il do those things.

the reason i think its a plumb back is that it doesnt have a trumpet and cant see a venting bit on it. and seems to have a pipe that looks like it goes back to somewhere. have studied it wen i got the car and came to the conclusion it must be a plumb back but will look again

Yeah just follow it and be positive it heads back towards the intake.

Could be venting somewhere down the side to hide from police or something stupid like that.

I found it for you just incase.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

  • 3 weeks later...

i got out of it easy luckily. looked at motor for abit before i went any further. spotted a broken vacuum line from plenum to cant remember. replaced that and problem fixed.

thanks for the suggestions but. probably would have left it for ages if i had to do that aac thing. alot nicer now but

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
    • Yep four point harness. Mounted to a bolted in brace running behind the seats. Dont use it for daily driving tbh but good to have for when its needed plus it looks cool.
    • I had to double check the thread title r34 gtt offset advice lol. Thought maybe i posted on the wrong thread. 😂
×
×
  • Create New...