Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Will do mate, will send through tonight..

Hey i was wondering if you had a gt brake master cylinder plus booster?

If so could u send me a picture of it and a quote to post to victoria 3150?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

If anyone in Vic wants any of this I am thinking of driving to SA to pick up the front bar and reo, so i can offer very cheap discount shipping lol.

UPDATED LIST OF AVAILABLE BITS... OFFERS WELCOME...

Gt Automatic gear box with tailshaft $200

GTT Airconditioner Compressor $100

2 x LHS Fenders (both have a small lip on the edge from tyres nothing major) $150 each

Bonnet (has several hail damage dints, would most probably need to be resprayed by new owner and removing them would be an easy and cheap job) $180

pair of front bar orange indicators $40

Pair of fender orange indicators$10

ABS Unit $150

Carbon canister $20

GT Dash (No Vents) $50

GT Auto dash Custer (just cicked over 100,000 kms) $80

Carpet $80

Seatbelt (set of 5 with rear buckles)$100

Door locks and ignition barrell with key- have lock box also if required for remote key) $100

Drivers door $150

Drivers door card (speaker painted silver and handle surround) $20

Passenger door$150

Passenger door card (speaker painted silver and and handle) $20

LHS Rear door card $20

LHS Rear door glass $40

LHS Rear door window switch $10

RHS Reah door card (painted handle silver $20

RHS Rear window switch $10

RHS Rear door $150

Passenger door window switch (painted silver)$20

Sunvisor pair $20

Parcel shelf $20

Roof lining $40

Boot lid with spoiler holes$100

Space saver rim $40

Boot lining $50

Drivers scuff panel $20

Passenger scuff panel $20

RHS Rear scuff Panel $20

LHS Rear scuff panel $20

A Pillars pair (re fabricated) $20

B Pillars Pair $20

C Pillars Pair$20

Pair of what i beleive is the fogdriving lights that sit next to the indicators in some gtt front bars $50

RB25DET injectors (115,000 km old) make an offer

RHS Tail light $100

LHS tail light $100

Rear bumper (minor mark will come out with respray) $150

Weather shied set $100 slight damage to one

Rear windscreen $100

Tripple gauge cluster (gauges only) $40

Hicas computer make an offer

Hicas unit $50

Heater $100

Roof handles set $20

Front steering rack- with crossember and sway bar $300

rear subframe

Diff (has the one ABS sensor- not the one with two sensors $250

Handbrake with cable $80

SRS control box, make an offer

Steering wheel with airbag GT auto (some wear) $150

RHS Lower Control arm $50

LHS Lower Control arm $50

RHS castor arm $40

LHS castor arm $40

GTT dump pipe make an offer

Nismo exhaust (think its a 2 1/4" il have to check) cat back(knocked out cat)suit N/A $350

Rear seat $150

Front seat pair-no seat belt buckles (will sell once they have been dry cleaned to remove some grime- should be done in a week or two) $300

rear reinforcement bar$100

body loom make an offer

headight loom make an offer

fuel flap $20

GT fuel pump make an offer

GTT brake master cylinder and booster $150

mat set $80

Apexi N1 coilovers to suit 4 door 34 $600

Front and rear hubs, $200 the lot

Anychance i could get some pics of Apexi N1 coilovers to suit 4 door 34, What condition are these in km ect?

Cheers damien

Hey mate, I am interested in boot lid and possibly the bonnet. I'm willing to come pick them up, pm me location and when you're available?

Pm sent

Edited by elir32

Bump.... Please no more time wasters...I don't have time for countless messages for stuff that's long sold and people not following through with a sale etc.,, am negotiable on bits...

Just wondering what colour the fog lights are and would they suit the br i got off you? Also are you able to send me a pic of the floor mats, no hurry just he you have time?

And lastly, i am after a few things you dont have listed in the off chance you have them... Do you have the plastics that sit below the engine and also both left and right guard liners?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...