Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

You need a pink slip - which is a mechanical inspection, can be done at most mechanics (around $35).

The mechanic will fill out paperwork and electronically send it through to the RTA. Once this is through, you will then be able to renew your registration by either going in to the RTA or online.

Then you need to also renew your green slip. Think of this as 'people insurance' for those in and around your car while you are driving.

Hope this helps.

And that "Green Slip" or "CTP" insurance (Chris mentioned above) should be in the mail to you Ricky.

If you're insured with Shannons, Shannons has their own "CTP" "Green Slip" at a discount rate - undercutting other insurers.

So you can shop around...

you will only need a blue slip if rego has lapsed for more then 3 months, Other then that, your pink slip and CTP is all linked, THey will notfify eachother so its in force at the same time.

you can do CTP over the phone and they will give you a recipt number, YOu wrtie that down and put on widnscreen if your rego has lasped for a few weeks.

Then mechnic will test brakes and quick look over, as above about $35

Stupid question, but comprehensive doesn't include CTP does it? I'm with NRMA.

Roads & Maritime (aka RTA) wants 3 things off you...

1) Registration Papers with $$$

2) CTP (green slip) that has already been paid - this covers people injured in a smash. It will have been stamped after payment.

3) Pink Slip or Vehicle Inspection Slip after your car has been inspected at an authorised station/mechanic; and this has been forwarded to the RMS anyway (before you get there)

After 3) the vehicle inspection has been done (aka pink slip), as Adam and others have said, you can register online. :)

check your rego papers to see if an inspection is needed, I didn't need one on my series 1 r33 because it was complianced in 2007 and is classed as 2007 model to the rta, so fell into the new car rule of not needing an inspection for 5 years, so you may only need to get your green slip

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...