Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey mate, why don't you just buy mine. Its an R32 with an RB25DET conversion! Anyway, the engine itself in good nick should only be around $2500-3000 with the loom n ecu. You will save yourself heaps if you do the installation urself with some mechanic mates as the labour is the real killer when it comes to overall cost. The previous owner of my car did this (He was 1st aussie owner of the car) which I had professionally inspected and everything was mechanically sound. Once all in, you will need an engineer's certificate to approve the mods cause you've increased the capacity of the engine, & any other mods, etc. Good luck - Hope this helps.

here's a rough breakdown of my costs for stuff from japan, i've got an RB20DE in my 32 GTS...

RB25DET engine - $1500 from a Series 1 R33 with wiring loom

Power FC + hand Controller + EBC usually goes for $1300 from supplier (i got a secondhand one for $900)

HKS Intercooler - $800

TD06 + manifold + wastegate + AFM - $1500

Shipping it all in a container roughly $400, haven't done it yet, will be leaving on the 20th

Putting it all together... hehe doin it all myself with a few mates.

Although if you're goin for stock gear it should be at least $3000 cheaper.

Mind you these are all AUD and also i pulled a few strings.

Putting in an R33 engine with a stock R33 ECU is a pain in the ass apparently because the sensor readings are all different on an R32.

I;ve got wiring diagrams for both cars so if you want em let me know.

hey yeah funky monkey would i be able to have the R32 and R33 wirring loom, as my mate has converted his car engine but he cant do the wirring loom so he has sent it away to be done and they can not do it either, so he is trying to track them down so he can do it.

He has converted a R32 gts to a R33 gts25 (yeah i know why not a gts25t, well thats because he is south african and we can not understand the shit he does sometimes)

yeah the gear box and dif out of a r32 gts25 will hold and also a gts-t gear box and diff will hold however the gts-t gear wont last as long as the gts25 gear box, then it all depends on how much boost you run and how you treat your baby. gts25 gear is around 2500 and a gts-t is around about 1300 dollars so the other alternative is to run a weaker clutch so if that gives you wont have to fork out as much money on the gear box......... the gear boxes in the gts 25 are the same as the gts25t andyway.....................

I don't plan on running high boost all the time, only when I'm on the track. Other times the car's used as a daily driver so I doubt the gearbox will get a thrashing.

The box will only give if I drive it like a d!ck and race everyone I see at a traffic light. I'm not into that shit anymore so I'm sure the gearbox will last a lil while, might have to change the clutch. I'll replace the parts as they give, coz the resale value of an R32 gearbox is pityful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...