Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've been looking at getting a new car lately, as my current one can't tow a trailer (Contains all my dj stuff)

Anyways, I've been looking for something sporty and partially practical, so i've been looking at a few skylines.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/liverpool/engine-engine-parts-transmission/skyline-r34-gti-engine-parts-etc-/1004814415

Those kind (Minus the red interiour) are really what im after, I love them in that kind of "Mid night black"

Im not a hoon of any kind, and am a very caucious driver.

One problem is though that I need something half economical, as I travel between many schools every day doing IT administration and courdination. (Works out to about 600 k's a week)

I was hoping that I would be able to get 10k's a litre out of one, but it's not seeming that way.

Also under south australian regulation, as a P plater I am not allowed to drive a turbo of any kind (Unless diesel) until I have my full licence.

So is a skyline the right car for me?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406395-is-an-r34-the-right-car-for-me/
Share on other sites

Harey on here has a tow ball on his GTT I believe.

I have to agree with the above though, OP. A Skyline is really the wrong car for the job, they don't have the low-down torque needed to pull a trailer effectively. RB's love to rev, they're not designed for pulling power. You also won't get anywhere near 10l/100km's with an untuned RB25DE. My old engine used to get me about 350km's to a tank. Kwaka is spot on, an AU or even an older EL/EF Falcon would be more the vehicle to suit you.

Definetly not, I'd reccommend something like a Holden ute, ford falcon, or a ford/holden wagon they are used alot for towing trailers etc...

A skyline is not designed for that and should be enjoyed not used as a work car to tow heavy equipment around.

Edited by DarkRyda

The trailer im towing is a super light bare bones 500kg (When fully loaded) A frame job, But il head your advice.

I might go to one of those government options where they auction off the ex-fleet car's. If I stick around for long enough I might get something.

One of my things is getting something a little bit luxurius/sporty.

Cheers guys!

Edited by TheMysticGoose

i tow my tinny with my SSS pulsar. it does the job fine (sits on 100kmh fine), but you know it's there. i've towed a trailer with furniture and stuff on it as well. does it fine around town too.

having said that though, depending on how much stuff you have, and how bit it is, you may fit it in the back of a commodore or falcon wagon without having to use the trailer. with the rear seats folded down you can fit in a heap of stuff. not to mention being super comfy. i have a VT wagon as my daily drive. i drive just under 65km each way to and from work every day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...