Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-T Hasnt Been Started For 4 Years Injectors Blocked? Or Cas?

tristan_16

By tristan_16,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tristan_16 Explorer

tristan_16

Posted
Posted

hey i got a r32 gtst wich hasnt been started for 4 years ive cleaned all the tank an put a new pump in as it wasnt working i no have fuel at the engine as i took one of the lines off but now it wont start i have good spark an the engine fires when i spray aero start in it, would it be the injectors are fk$d or could it be the CAS any help would be much appreciated cheers

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Obviously a fuel problem if it starts with aero start.

Changed to fuel filter?

Did you connect up the fuel lines correctly when you put the pump cradle back in? Ie not reversed.

I'd start with that, make sure you getting fuel to the rail correctly before looking at the injectors. But yes, they could be blocked.

Do an oil change first as well if you haven't done so already.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Oh, you could also remove the CAS, switch the ignition on, rotate the CAS with your hand and listen to see if the injectors are firing. If they are, it's not a CAS issue.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

You can disconnect the fuel pump remove a spark plug and rotate the CAS see if it gets a spark or not. If it does then its probably working. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge see if there is fuel pressure and check the fuel filter.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Yeah you'll still hear them firing even if the are blocked.

Another thing to try, is block the fuel return line with some clamps and then try starting.

Pull the CAS first and check the injectors are firing.

When your cranking it (without aero start), does it fire/cough at all? Or it just cranks?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

If fuel is getting past the regulator then you have enough fuel to start the engine. Don't worry about a pressure gauge for now.

Do as suggested above and listen for the sound of the injectors while rotating the CAS with the ignition on. They will be fairly noticeable. If they don't pulse, get an LED test light or a noid light and test for injector pulse. If you have injector pulse, turn the ignition on, get a screw driver and LIGHTLY tap each injector while a mate rotates the CAS. If any of them start ticking after that, take them all out and get them cleaned and flowed

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

If fuel is getting past the regulator then you have enough fuel to start the engine. Don't worry about a pressure gauge for now.

Do as suggested above and listen for the sound of the injectors while rotating the CAS with the ignition on. They will be fairly noticeable. If they don't pulse, get an LED test light or a noid light and test for injector pulse. If you have injector pulse, turn the ignition on, get a screw driver and LIGHTLY tap each injector while a mate rotates the CAS. If any of them start ticking after that, take them all out and get them cleaned and flowed

Just adding to that, if you use an LED to test injector pulse, note that you'll need a 12V LED or a 2-3V LED with a dropping resistor. Polarity dependent as well.

Injectors have constant 12V to one side of them.

Injectors drivers inside the ECU ground the other side of the injector.

nicko9ty Apprentice

nicko9ty

Posted
Posted

Im having the same problem. Just put a rb20 in 32 rollin shell. It cranks over and sorta backfires alot but no start. i checked fuel to the rail and thats good. spark is good. First cas i had in it was oviiously f#@ked cause wen i put a spare one in it sounded more like it was gonna fire.first one was makin it sorta die. Ecu code 55 so thats all sweet. All earths seem sweet. Would a few blocked injectors cause wat ive explained or anything else i should check

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted

The injectors will be gummed up, fairly common thing with them. If you have spark then you can rule the CAS out, remove the injectors from the intake but keep all the lines on, then crank the car with the rail removed and check they are working. You probably won't have to get new injectors, generally if you remove each injector from the rail, then gently tap on the injector body with a screw driver this is enough to get the pintle working again.

Then put each one back in the rail. I bought a brand new set of Nismo injectors a while back, had been sitting in there boxes for about 2 years, chucked them in the car but nothing was working. Removed them and tapped on the body, starting working again.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...