Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Boost Issue

joshm35

By joshm35,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

joshm35 Veteran

joshm35

Posted
Posted (edited)

Guys,

Have noticed when I do long trips in stagea every now and then my boost will.go from 9/10 pound to getting restricted to 5pound till I reset ecu via turning off car. No dash warning lights and yes they work. Any ideas guys??

Edited by joshm35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/
Share on other sites
andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

I had a problem with the Boost Solonoid where instead of getting 13psi max boost I would get only 7psi.

My problem had no CEL light and was solved each time by turning the car off and restarting. The cause always seemed to be giving it a few revs up a particular hill.

I changed my Boost solonoid and the problem was solved. The Boost solonoid sits on the passenger side of the car under the plastic engine cover. It is bolted to the side of the plenum and has 2 small rubber hoses running out one side, 1 to the intake and 1 to the turbo actuator and one hose rinning to the front of the car that connects via a T piece to the boost sensor on the intake.

I believe you can clean a solenoid but I did not try that.

Cheers

Andy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6478256
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

If the solenoid is blocked it will lower the boost, if there is a leak it may go higher causing the ecu to pull it back.

The hose from the solenoid that T's into the boost line has a restrictor in it. If it has been replaced that could make the boost rise too high causing the same issue. Have you changed the exhaust to 3 inch? that would cause it to run higher too.

A way around it is to trick the stock map sensor into thinking the pressure is fine, you could use a small pressure regulator if you wanted, set to 12psi, but I would be getting a better boost gauge first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6478291
Share on other sites
Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted (edited)

i removed the factory one and replaced it with a turbosmart easy 5 mins fix. Boost comes on much better and smoother now.

QFT.

Buy boost gauge

replace with a turbosmart(or the sort) set it to 14psi or whatever the boost setting is and bypass the lines for the standard solenoid. Leave the standard one plugged in to avoid CEL. problem solved.

Edited by Sunkist
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6478382
Share on other sites
joshm35 Veteran

joshm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had a problem with the Boost Solonoid where instead of getting 13psi max boost I would get only 7psi.

My problem had no CEL light and was solved each time by turning the car off and restarting. The cause always seemed to be giving it a few revs up a particular hill.

I changed my Boost solonoid and the problem was solved. The Boost solonoid sits on the passenger side of the car under the plastic engine cover. It is bolted to the side of the plenum and has 2 small rubber hoses running out one side, 1 to the intake and 1 to the turbo actuator and one hose rinning to the front of the car that connects via a T piece to the boost sensor on the intake.

I believe you can clean a solenoid but I did not try that.

Cheers

Andy

This sounds exactly whats going on. Do you know the price and numbers of a new solinoid?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6478525
Share on other sites
joshm35 Veteran

joshm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If the solenoid is blocked it will lower the boost, if there is a leak it may go higher causing the ecu to pull it back.

The hose from the solenoid that T's into the boost line has a restrictor in it. If it has been replaced that could make the boost rise too high causing the same issue. Have you changed the exhaust to 3 inch? that would cause it to run higher too.

A way around it is to trick the stock map sensor into thinking the pressure is fine, you could use a small pressure regulator if you wanted, set to 12psi, but I would be getting a better boost gauge first.

Standard hoses and exhaust

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6478527
Share on other sites
Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

for now? its what I would be doing permanently.. keeping or replacing the solenoid is not going to fix the factory safety drop in boost. it is spiking with the cold weather and/or not allowing the car to warm up before boosting. mine used to do it all the time and it pissed me off. the only way to get around it is by bypassing the solenoid with a manual/electronic boost controller.

once again: problem solved.

plus i cant imagine the worth it:price ratio for a new solenoid, which is most likely not going to fix the issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6478798
Share on other sites
andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

This sounds exactly whats going on. Do you know the price and numbers of a new solinoid?

No, don't know the cost. BUT either take up Scotts offer or get an aftermarker boost controller. Even with the wastgate actuator spring Mod the car felt stronger on initial boost when I used the Greddy Profec B boost controller. It bypasses the factory one so no more problem.

Cheers

Andy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6479728
Share on other sites
Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

yeah i thought of keeping it though it's one less thing i gotta worry about second guessing me bleed valve :)

Just keep it in the glove box or boot hiding spaces, if the problem ever occurs plug it in and drive home?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406537-m35-boost-issue/#findComment-6481080
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • Piggaz
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • f00stx
      Intro/R33 owner

      By f00stx · Posted

      Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • f00stx
      Second time Skyline owner (R33 GTS-T and now a V36 370GT)

      By f00stx · Posted

      Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...