Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys what i have here for sale is he remainder of a car that i bought a while ago. All parts that can be seen in the photos are for sale.

You can take the whole lot off my hands for $500 minus the gearbox and with space saver wheels not the ones in the photos or simply buy what you need. I would prefer to sell the whole lot as one but feel free to make an offer on anything you see.

Car is located approx 2 hours east of melbourne and i can arrange drop off around melbourne at your expense or you are welcome to come get it from where it sits.

The car has had a large hit across the front so therefore none of those parts are any good. Car is a Stat writeoff and cannot be repaired.

Anyway here is a list of a few parts and prices as per rules if you dont see what you want listed then pm me and ill get back to you asap, motor has been sold and is not available for sale

Auto Transmission $350 ono

Doors $100 each front left has a fair bit of damage but probably repairable ono

Front Driveshafts $100 ono each

Window switches drivers door $75 ono

Steering Rack $250 ono

Dash Cluster $100 ono

Front Brakes $150 ono

Rear Brakes $100 ono

Diff $200 ono

Anyway i have attached a few pics here of the car, also have some r33, r31, s14 parts here also so dont be shy on asking.

I can arrange postage at buyers expense on small items. Large items will either need to be collected or i can drop them at a local courier for you to arrange freight

post-16406-0-38585500-1344565030_thumb.jpg

post-16406-0-16890200-1344565053_thumb.jpg

post-16406-0-91804200-1344565098_thumb.jpg

post-16406-0-94914000-1344565346_thumb.jpg

post-16406-0-81673700-1344565473_thumb.jpg

post-16406-0-45939600-1344565495_thumb.jpg

post-16406-0-67701900-1344565524_thumb.jpg

post-16406-0-68832100-1344565612_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406709-stagea-c34-series-1-wreck/
Share on other sites

Hi how much for the right hand air con vent and

have you still got the g sensor under center console and is it still ok i.e. indicator not turned red

not sure if s1 is the same as s2 but have you got the auto shifter cable?

it attaches to the passenger side of the gearstick and drivers side of the gearbox.

and price on rear outer door handles? thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Hey guys just a quick update a few parts have been sold off and im now dropping the price of the whole car to $300 ono with no wheels or tyres. Will even consider throwing in the transmission.

Dont really have time to pull the parts off just want the whole car gone.

Pm me if your keen on the whole lot or have a decent offer on parts but im not gonna waste my time for $5 parts.

Cheers

Hey, Im interested in the whole car. dont need the transmission. will organise freight to perth. waiting to hear back from insurance company. please dont off load it yet. do you still have it.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...